Mountain Project: Climbing Golden

Welcome to this epic journey. Double Stout is a 35m route offering two unique and stout cruxes - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. Easily the longest route of its grade in the Canyon. Stopping at a pair of midway anchors below the roof offers an excellent 5.13- tick in itself, though the roof extension adds full value.

Start with the first few clips over a small roof of Black and Tan, and continue straight up the golden brown face. The sustained crux lasts for several more clips and some may find it slightly height dependent. The first part finishes at anchors under the intimidating inverted roof at about 75 feet. If one were to TR this pitch, there is a single belay bolt down on the ledge left of the base for the belayer's added safety.

The Double Stout EXTENSION

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner at the anchor, or back-clean or you will be sandbagged by drag. The extension boulders over the roof at say, V9 or so, and is significantly height dependent (clipping the first bolt starting out may be an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors. Congratulations, you're the shit.

The Stage

Continue past Reefer Madness along the exposed ledges on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. This is the route left of Black and Tan. It starts with the first three clips of B & T and continues straight up and left. The first bolt does not really do anything but does provide a convenient belay bolt if it's raining. The route stays dry in the rain.

Nuts and Bolts

8 or 9 clips get you to the first anchors. Another half dozen or so continues with the extension to the top.

70m rope is a must. Anything shorter and you won't make it back to the ledge without some trickery (or injury/death!).

Comments on Double Stout

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By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Jun 30, 2010
rating: 5.13+

This could be one of the best single pitches in the canyon. It gives everything CCC has to offer from hard face, a big roof, sustained steep climbing and exposure. All this in 1 mega 115 ft pitch. For those just breaking into low 13s, the lower face is an excellent pitch in itself clocking in around 13a/b.

I met Darren at the base of Ten Digit the day he bolted this route, and we have since become great friends. There have been some really good times, drunk times, hard times, and some really close to sending times (doh!). It's crazy to think how "OBSESSIVE" we were over this route (Darren still is ;). And how cool it was to go from granny clipping every bolt to flyin' off the roof on redpoint burns. After 1 hanging this route soooo many times, I'm content with 13b A0... still 4 stars at that, too!

I'm glad this thing is open now.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2010

After a lot of thought, I decided to open the extension. I will take down the red tag next time I am up there. When I bolted the Double Stout almost exactly one year ago, I gave myself one year to free it before opening it up. So, I am holding to that... have at it. Thank you to those for the respect to allow my one year while it was tagged.

I have come SO close to redpointing, having made all the crux sequences clean, but couldn't quite keep my shit together to finally put the redpoint away. I freed to the first anchors shortly after I put it up, and have trained specifically for the crux roof sequence. I will continue to try for my personal redpoint quest, but the FFA seems like a technicality at this point, for me. I am mostly satisfied that reality matched my vision.

I want to give huge thanks to Dave Montgomery for all the time we spent working on freeing it together, the belays, and discovering the roof beta together. Our friendship started because of this route. We each gave it more than 150 burns, in the heat, snow, dark, rain, and cold. But I have enjoyed the experience and the knowledge gained on every effort.

I am very proud how special this route turned out to be, and I hope anyone who climbs it enjoys it as much as we have!

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 30, 2010

Congratulations on an amazing journey and sharing your experience on the site.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 1, 2010

Nice job, guys! I have watched both of you come agonizingly close to doing this route, it was heartbreaking, but inspiring! Thanks Darren for opening yet another line in CCC, you've done so much for all us locals. Monty, sorry we couldn't get out before Caryn and I left, but hope to see both of you out there in the big, wide, climbing world sometime soon.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Sep 17, 2010

Holy f*cking hard, slab climbing!!!

By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Sep 17, 2010
rating: 5.13+

Thats funny, Jason. We always called that face a slab, too, but it's really hard to call it a slab when it's almost dead vertical! But compared to the massive roof above, ya it's a slab. TECHY is an understatement.

By Kaelen Williams
Sep 20, 2010

This sounds awesome, I'm psyched! Thanks for opening it up!

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 20, 2011

I heard that the DS has been sent? True or false?

By Kbird
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 10, 2011

I don't believe it has been sent, although I'm not 100% about that. If it has, I'd love to hear more about it, that would be very proud!!!

Double Stout

5.14-

The Journey

The Double Stout EXTENSION

The Stage

Nuts and Bolts

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