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Wall of the '90s
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.30-06 
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Double Stout 
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Hey Good Lookin' 
Hot Stuff 
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Roadrunner 
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Y2K 

Double Stout 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c A0

   
Type:  Sport, Aid, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c A0 [details]
FA: FFA: 13b to first anchors, D. Mabe, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,679
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Jun 29, 2010
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Reachin' for some goodness on the Double Stout's l...

The Journey 

Welcome to this epic journey. Double Stout is a 35m route offering two unique and stout cruxes - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.

Start with the first few clips over a small roof of Black and Tan, and continue straight up the golden brown face. The sustained crux lasts for several more clips (preferably pre-hung). Stopping short at the anchor of Casual Gods below the roof offers an excellent 5.13- tick in itself.


The Double Stout EXTENSION 

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner, or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors. The rating of the pitch in its entirety may likely be 13+/14-, and has yet to see a first free ascent.


The Stage 

Continue past Reefer Madness along the exposed ledges on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. This is the route left of Black and Tan. It starts with the first three clips of B & T and continues straight up and left. The route stays dry in the rain. If it is raining, the first bolt of B&T can provide a convenient belay bolt.


Nuts and Bolts 

8 or 9 clips get you to the anchors under the roof at about 75'. Another half dozen or so continues with the extension to the top. A few long draws at some choice spots will help with hard clips and rope-drag when running the route in its entirety.

A 70m rope is a must. Anything shorter and you won't make it back to the ledge.



Photos of Double Stout Slideshow Add Photo
Darren finishing the crux. <br /> <br />Photo by Angela Dembik.
Darren finishing the crux.

Photo by Angela Dembik...
The calm before the storm. <br /> <br />Photo by Angela Dembik.
The calm before the storm.

Photo by Angela Dembik...
Thought that if I brewed my own Double Stout it'd be the fuel I needed to send the route.... Turns out the roof felt much harder after drinkin' this bomber.
Thought that if I brewed my own Double Stout it'd ...
Big, bold, complex. <br /> <br />8.8% ABV.
Big, bold, complex.

8.8% ABV.
Profile of the Double Stout. <br /> <br />Under construction, June '09.
Profile of the Double Stout.

Under construction, ...
Cruxin'.
Cruxin'.
First crux of Double Stout, summer 2010. <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: First crux of Double Stout, summer 2010.

Comments on Double Stout Add Comment
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By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 30, 2010
rating: 5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a

This could be one of the best single pitches in the canyon. It gives everything CCC has to offer from hard face, a big roof, sustained steep climbing and exposure. All this in 1 mega 115 ft pitch. For those just breaking into low 13s, the lower face is an excellent pitch in itself clocking in around 13a/b.

I met Darren at the base of Ten Digit the day he bolted this route, and we have since become great friends. There have been some really good times, drunk times, hard times, and some really close to sending times (doh!). It's crazy to think how "OBSESSIVE" we were over this route (Darren still is ;). And how cool it was to go from granny clipping every bolt to flyin' off the roof on redpoint burns. After 1 hanging this route soooo many times, I'm content with 13b A0... still 4 stars at that, too!

I'm glad this thing is open now.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2010

After a lot of thought, I decided to open the extension. I will take down the red tag next time I am up there. When I bolted the Double Stout almost exactly one year ago, I gave myself one year to redpoint it before opening it up. So, I am holding to that... have at it. Thank you to those for the respect to allow my one year while it was tagged.

I have climbed everything cleanly, but I couldn't quite keep my shit together to finally put the redpoint away. I freed to the first anchors shortly after I put it up, and have trained specifically for the crux roof. I will continue to try for my personal redpoint quest, but the FFA seems like a technicality for me, at this point. I am mostly satisfied that reality matched my vision of this epic route.

I want to give huge thanks to Dave Montgomery for all the time we spent working on freeing it together, the belays, and discovering the roof beta together. Our friendship started because of this route. We each gave it more than 150 burns, in the heat, snow, dark, rain, and cold. But I have enjoyed the experience and the knowledge gained on every effort.

I am very proud how special this route turned out to be, and I hope anyone who climbs it enjoys it as much as we have!

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 30, 2010

Congratulations on an amazing journey and sharing your experience on the site.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 1, 2010

Nice job, guys! I have watched both of you come agonizingly close to doing this route, it was heartbreaking, but inspiring! Thanks Darren for opening yet another line in CCC, you've done so much for all us locals. Monty, sorry we couldn't get out before Caryn and I left, but hope to see both of you out there in the big, wide, climbing world sometime soon.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Sep 17, 2010

Holy f*cking hard, slab climbing!!!

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Sep 17, 2010
rating: 5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a

Thats funny, Jason. We always called that face a slab, too, but it's really hard to call it a slab when it's almost dead vertical! But compared to the massive roof above, ya it's a slab. TECHY is an understatement.

By Kaelen Williams
Sep 20, 2010

This sounds awesome, I'm psyched! Thanks for opening it up!

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 20, 2011

I heard that the DS has been sent? True or false?

By KDog
Nov 10, 2011

I don't believe it has been sent, although I'm not 100% about that. If it has, I'd love to hear more about it, that would be very proud!!!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 13, 2014

Nice footage from a few years ago of Dave hiking the approach slab and attempting the roof: