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 ADVANCED
Aqueduct Area, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aquaduck T 
Burning Bits S 
Chinese Water Torture T 
Chris' Crack T 
Double Standard T,TR 
Dredging the Trench T 
Free Lemmingwinks S 
Lip Service T 
Maybe Pandora's Box? S 
Poison Idea T 
Sockdollager T 
Straight Face TR 
Straight Talk T 
Submachine S,TR 
Subterrainian T 
Terra Nova T 

Double Standard 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis 1989
Page Views: 1,039
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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A sunny April morning with Jon Scoville.

Description 

Just left of the large boulder, is a crack that requires stemming down low and jams the rest of the way. The protection is there and the moves are not too bad.


Protection 

2 bolts are at the top for anchors. Getting to the anchors requires a lead of some sort. If one doesn't feel like leading a trad route, one can lead Lip Service.



Comments on Double Standard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 21, 2006

Standard rack would suffice for the lead. It takes nuts very well.

By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Feb 22, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very fun route. For extra fun, do the steep start w/o stemming off the boulder. Makes it more sustained and pumpy.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Nice and steep. Good protection. A must do if you're up there..