Pitch 1: Head up the left side of the Sierra Corazon slab. Most of this is really easy but a lieback section near the top of this requires committing 5.7 moves, protectable with large cams. Straight up after this move, and you'll reach a 3-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Move left and go straight up past 4 bolts to the steep headwall with the double finger cracks. These take small cams and painful finger jams. It's fun stemming between the cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. You can plug in as much gear as you need in this crux section, especially finger size cams, but if you place gear in both cracks, use long runners to alleviate rope drag. This felt like hard 5.10 to me, but the gear is excellent. If you don't like pain or don't have good technique, the left-facing dihedral right of the 2 splitter cracks is easier (5.8 or 5.9), and will also reach the chains. (This right variation ("Bull Snake") was climbed by Mark Mathis on TR in 7/07, led by Matt Price subsequently, but certainly someone could've climbed it earlier.) Both choices are still a little loose in the headwall section, but it'll clean up with traffic.
The climb ascends the left edge of the Sierra Corazon slab in the 2nd Tunnel area, then goes straight up on Pitch 2.
Rap the route by 2 rappels w/ a single 60m rope (or one rappel with 2 ropes).
Standard rack from 0.5" to 3". 4 bolts.
2-bolt anchors at the first belay and at the top are equipped with chains for rappelling.
Rachael in the thick of it on the second pitch of ...
|By Matt Price|
Oct 21, 2007
I don't like pain, and the hand-size crack in the dihedral just looked too nice to pass up. Be careful if you go this way, there are a LOT of loose rocks. Part of the crux is just figuring out how to move up w/o pelting your belayer with rocks. We also had the added danger of numerous wasps on this wall :(
|By Christian Garland|
From: Talala, OK
May 18, 2009
1. This route is not 250ft, we rapped it with two ropes to the ground with rope left over. More like 180ish feet.
2. When we got to the splitter crack we went to the right and like others have said there was a lot of loose rock. I pulled one off and it flew down and hit my car/wife at the same time. Everyone was ok but a little scary. I suggest not parking or sitting next to this when someone is climbing. Its a great route and plan to do it again on a Weekday so there is less traffic and I can do some cleaning.