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 ADVANCED
Turtle Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
40oz of Freedom T 
5.11c S 
Cherry T 
Cisco Kid T,S 
Double Scooter S 
Dr. Who T 
Knobs S 
Knobs Up S 
Lemonis Lament T 
Robbin' the Hood TR 
Saw Blade S 
Scalsamine S 
Shoulder Season S 
Slot, The T 
Smack and Spray S 
Uncle Kurt's Disco T 
Unloved 
You Call Yourself a Thief? T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Double Scooter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Doug Ranck
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Erik Pohlman on Jul 3, 2011

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Description 

Climb the face and chimney through a bit of bird poo. It is still a little chossy.

Location 

This is on the NW face of Turtle Rock. Park in the lot south of Bob's Rock and head SE toward the rock. The climb starts up a chimney.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2 ring anchor.


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By Jeff Edge
Aug 4, 2012

Climb the corner through an absolute ton of bird poo*. Several of the bolts are so covered in bird poo that you have to knock chunks off to get a clip in and they're so camouflaged they actually can't be detected from the ground. Somewhat awkward climb, dodging poo seems to bring it into the 10 range. Very chossy too, just about blinded my poor belayer.

As for parking, the approach seems to be shorter from the butt-side of The Turtle walking down and around (just keep staying right as you drive in until it ends in a parking area) walk downhill then follow the rock left. Neighboring routes to the right are Triple Delight, 5.12a, and Smack and Spray, 5.11d.