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Routes in 5. Devonshire
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Cream on My Scone T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Devonshire Pillar T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Devonshire Ridge TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Double Puzzle TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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High Side TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hung Like Benedict T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Major John Andre TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | TR, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | TR Karel Hrbacek + Ken Roberts 2015 |
| Page Views: | 613 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 24, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Two contrived (interesting) problems.
Up on the face just left of the dihedral / gully, without using the Cream on My Scone arete which forms the left edge of the gully.
Straight up to meet the gully just below the left side of the obvious overhanging bulge (which the Hung Like Benedict route goes on its right side). Without using the gully or holds to its left, climb directly up the front left side of the bulge to its top.
. (Variation: fun + much easier to finish with Cream on My Scone up the gully until near the level of the top of the bulge, then step right across to the bulge).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Up on the face just left of the dihedral / gully, without using the Cream on My Scone arete which forms the left edge of the gully.
Straight up to meet the gully just below the left side of the obvious overhanging bulge (which the Hung Like Benedict route goes on its right side). Without using the gully or holds to its left, climb directly up the front left side of the bulge to its top.
. (Variation: fun + much easier to finish with Cream on My Scone up the gully until near the level of the top of the bulge, then step right across to the bulge).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
Five feet left of the obvious gully on the left edge of the Devonshire slab (and on the right edge of the Shadow Castle face). See Routes photo.
Protection
Top-Rope: Best to set up the top anchor (using static line from a tree above) so the rope comes down over the overhanging bulge to the R of the gully -- not down the top section of the gully.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.
Protection for trad leading is unknown.
How to reach top of cliff: See instructions in description of Devonshire area.
Protection for trad leading is unknown.
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