A well protected route that's exposed near the top. Climb up the crack in the corner, exit left and up to a platform. Climb right onto "lemon squeezer" block then up into recess beneath the right side of the overhang (popular pigeon roost). Step left and up into the notch in the overhang, and then continue to the top of the tower. I've broken the climb up into 2 pitches sometimes (like on Jungle Jim) by setting a belay beneath the overhang. It eliminates rope drag and gives a second that's just beginning to follow trad to see what a belay is all.
The start is in the inside corner on the south west side of the Tower below the big ceiling.
Escape off of the back (northwest side) of the tower and head up to the East Bluff Trail.
Best 5.4 to do in a November rain storm and your partner has forgotten his climbing shoes in the car and you get a .5 buried deep in some God awful crack and you stop half way to pitch it out because your hands are freezing and then you end up just bailing out through the gully on the left.
I only led the first half pitch before it got too dark. Then we escaped from the back side of the tower. Fist time climb in DL, rock is awful. Most parts are well protected, except the traverse below the first overhang. The route has some loosen rocks.
By Ryan Strong From: Golden, CO Jul 15, 2011 rating: 5.44a12IV10VD 3c
i agree... best 5.4 in the state! perfect jams to pull through an exposed roof!