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Rainy Wednesday Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agitator T 
Balcony, The TR 
Birnam Wood T 
Cerebration T,TR 
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Eave of Destruction T 
False Alarm Jam T,TR 
Foreplay T,TR 
Friendly Banter T,TR 
Green Bulge TR 
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 
Hirsute TR 
Jungle VIP TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Mezzanine, The T,TR 
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 
New Light Waves TR 
Orgasm T,TR 
Orgasm Direct T 
Out of the Woods T,TR 
Resolution TR 
Resurrection TR 
Second Balcony T,TR 
Second Coming TR 
Unnamed 5.4 T,TR 

Double Overhang 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,893
Submitted By: Paul Huebner on Aug 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Me at the second overhang. (1Jul2006)

Description 

A well protected route that's exposed near the top. Climb up the crack in the corner, exit left and up to a platform. Climb right onto "lemon squeezer" block then up into recess beneath the right side of the overhang (popular pigeon roost). Step left and up into the notch in the overhang, and then continue to the top of the tower. I've broken the climb up into 2 pitches sometimes (like on Jungle Jim) by setting a belay beneath the overhang. It eliminates rope drag and gives a second that's just beginning to follow trad to see what a belay is all.

Location 

The start is in the inside corner on the south west side of the Tower below the big ceiling.

Escape off of the back (northwest side) of the tower and head up to the East Bluff Trail.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Double Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Overhang (5.4) - Photo by Doug Hemken
Double Overhang (5.4) - Photo by Doug Hemken
Rock Climbing Photo: Fuzzy clipping gear.
Fuzzy clipping gear.
Rock Climbing Photo: Might as well clip it, right? Leading Double Overh...
Might as well clip it, right? Leading Double Overh...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out from under the second roof of Double O...
Looking out from under the second roof of Double O...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve belaying his partner up the Double Overhang ...
Steve belaying his partner up the Double Overhang ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Sohasky working his way over the second o-han...
Mike Sohasky working his way over the second o-han...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Sohasky on Double Overhang.  One  o-hang down...
Mike Sohasky on Double Overhang. One o-hang down...
Rock Climbing Photo: Double Overhang 5.4
BETA PHOTO: Double Overhang 5.4
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainy Wednesday Tower
BETA PHOTO: Rainy Wednesday Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelly and some classic Devil's Lake high stepping ...
Kelly and some classic Devil's Lake high stepping ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason
Jason
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan
Ryan

Comments on Double Overhang Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 13, 2008

Best 5.4 in Wisconsin.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 18, 2011

Best 5.4 to do in a November rain storm and your partner has forgotten his climbing shoes in the car and you get a .5 buried deep in some God awful crack and you stop half way to pitch it out because your hands are freezing and then you end up just bailing out through the gully on the left.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 19, 2011

This is a great climb to introduce someone to the concept of multi-pitch!
By Tony Brengosz
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Woah, Andy, don't insult me. I left my shoes at home, not in the car.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 19, 2011

My bad, Tony. But thanks for weathering the storm with me and almost losing your hands to the freeze trying to get my cam out of the crack.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

There's 3 large loose blocks under the roof that rock if you touch them.
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Everyone should do this! Just great!
By Captain Z
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I only led the first half pitch before it got too dark. Then we escaped from the back side of the tower. Fist time climb in DL, rock is awful.
Most parts are well protected, except the traverse below the first overhang. The route has some loosen rocks.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

i agree... best 5.4 in the state! perfect jams to pull through an exposed roof!

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