Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balcony, The TR 
Birnam Wood T 
Cerebration T,TR 
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Eave of Destruction T 
False Alarm Jam T,TR 
Foreplay T,TR 
Friendly Banter T,TR 
Green Bulge TR 
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 
Hirsute TR 
Jungle VIP TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Mezzanine, The T,TR 
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 
New Light Waves TR 
Orgasm T,TR 
Orgasm Direct T 
Out of the Woods T,TR 
Resolution TR 
Resurrection TR 
Second Balcony T,TR 
Second Coming TR 
Unnamed 5.4 T,TR 

Double Overhang 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,804
Submitted By: Paul Huebner on Aug 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Me at the second overhang. (1Jul2006)

Description 

A well protected route that's exposed near the top. Climb up the crack in the corner, exit left and up to a platform. Climb right onto "lemon squeezer" block then up into recess beneath the right side of the overhang (popular pigeon roost). Step left and up into the notch in the overhang, and then continue to the top of the tower. I've broken the climb up into 2 pitches sometimes (like on Jungle Jim) by setting a belay beneath the overhang. It eliminates rope drag and gives a second that's just beginning to follow trad to see what a belay is all.

Location 

The start is in the inside corner on the south west side of the Tower below the big ceiling.

Escape off of the back (northwest side) of the tower and head up to the East Bluff Trail.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Double Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Double Overhang (5.4) - Photo by Doug Hemken
Double Overhang (5.4) - Photo by Doug Hemken
Fuzzy clipping gear.
Fuzzy clipping gear.
Jason
Jason
Kelly and some classic Devil's Lake high stepping action.
Kelly and some classic Devil's Lake high stepping ...
Mike Sohasky working his way over the second o-hang of the "Double Overhang" route.
Mike Sohasky working his way over the second o-han...
Mike Sohasky on Double Overhang.  One  <br />o-hang down and one o-hang to go.
Mike Sohasky on Double Overhang. One o-hang down...
Ryan
Ryan
Steve belaying his partner up the Double Overhang on a beautiful fall day.
Steve belaying his partner up the Double Overhang ...
Rainy Wednesday Tower
BETA PHOTO: Rainy Wednesday Tower
Double Overhang 5.4
BETA PHOTO: Double Overhang 5.4

Comments on Double Overhang Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jul 13, 2008

Best 5.4 in Wisconsin.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 18, 2011

Best 5.4 to do in a November rain storm and your partner has forgotten his climbing shoes in the car and you get a .5 buried deep in some God awful crack and you stop half way to pitch it out because your hands are freezing and then you end up just bailing out through the gully on the left.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 19, 2011

This is a great climb to introduce someone to the concept of multi-pitch!
By Tony Brengosz
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Woah, Andy, don't insult me. I left my shoes at home, not in the car.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 19, 2011

My bad, Tony. But thanks for weathering the storm with me and almost losing your hands to the freeze trying to get my cam out of the crack.
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

There's 3 large loose blocks under the roof that rock if you touch them.
By Josh Knapp
From: East Troy, Wisconsin
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Everyone should do this! Just great!
By Zhengmu W.
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I only led the first half pitch before it got too dark. Then we escaped from the back side of the tower. Fist time climb in DL, rock is awful.
Most parts are well protected, except the traverse below the first overhang. The route has some loosen rocks.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

i agree... best 5.4 in the state! perfect jams to pull through an exposed roof!