Double O Slab 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Disney & Ken Paine 4/71, FFA: unknown |
| Submitted By: | allen simons on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Leading the 1st ascent ... notice, no tree growing...
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Description 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube there is a paved pullout on the south side of the road next to a big block of rock called the Borg. Look up and east. 3 obvious slabs exist. This crack is on the upper left slab in the center of the face. Two small trees grow out of the crack 20 feet from the base. Start up the thin crack and clip the two pitons. (5.10) move past the trees and climb the crack to the top using a standard trad rack to 2 inches.
Protection Three existing pitons, gear 0.5 to 2 inches. Two bolt anchor. Rap off to base then rap off natural anchors. Bushwhack to road or the rap gully and rap off of two bolts 50 feet to the road.
Upper Double O slab. Double O is the middle line ...
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BETA PHOTO: All of the Ironing Board Slabs uphill from the 0.6...
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BETA PHOTO: Topo- Double O is the crack in the center.
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| Comments on Double O Slab |
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By allen simons
Mar 14, 2006
| I was recently told the first ascent was by Jim Disney. It was originally an aid climb. |
By Jim Disney
May 16, 2006
| Thanks, Allen. We called it "Double 0 Slab" after the 1st ascent.
The first climb was mixed free & aid. |
By allen simons
May 16, 2006
| Jim, did you post the picture? It's exciting to see the history of this hidden canyon, thanks. Also interesting are how the names change due to loss of information and no guide books over the years, hence, "double O" to "007"! |
By Jim Disney
May 17, 2006
| Yes ... I posted the picture. Thought folks might get a laugh out of seeing how it was done back in the old days.
I did the 1st ascent with a great climbing partner, Ken Paine. We did a lot of climbs together, including my very first climb ... Kiener's Route on the East Face. We were both young and foolish and didn't know any better. The mountain gods were smiling on us that day. |
By allen simons
May 18, 2006
| Considering that you have climbed for four decades, and hiked every trail, peak, valley and ridge in the Park I would think the gods have smiled on you a lot. The pictures are great. Ever get the itch to climb anything in the canyon let me know. Allen |
By allen simons
Mar 29, 2007
| Jim, you don't know who bolted the left side of the slab left of Double O do you? 2 bolts in 130 feet with little other gear placements. The bolts are older stainless steel with a hint of golden rust on them and were there when I first climbed the slab in 1993. |
By Rob DeZonia
Feb 23, 2010
| This is an awesome route! My favorite in the area. |
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