Double Jeopardy  5.10+ R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet Consensus:  5.10+ [details] FA:  Steve Grossman, Brad Smith Submitted By:  Geir on Dec 21, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Double Jeopardy follows the stunning arete

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Closed to climbing, March 1 - June 30 MORE INFO >>> Effective this date and until further notice, Special Closure Order 05-189, dated March 18, 2002, is hereby amended as follows: All persons are permitted access into the “Squaretop Area, which includes all existing rock climbing sites and/or domes (i.e. Squaretop and Lower Squaretop), Dragoon Mountains in Township 17 South, Range 23 East, the East ½ of the Northeast ¼ of Section 27 and the Northeast ¼ of the Southeast ¼ of Section 27. All persons are permitted access into or through Rockfellow Dome Park, Dragoon Mountains (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) except as follows: Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no persons may be upon any part of Rockfellow Dome Complex and/or Cochise Dome (aka What’s My Line Dome) by rock climbing or any other means of access, annually from March 1st through June 30th; and/or Unless exempt with a permit specifically authorizing the prohibited activity, no overnight camping is permitted within Rockfellow Dome Park (Township 17, Range 23 East, West ½ Section 26) annually from March 1st through June 30th. Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Double Jeopardy is a committing, exposed climb on the beautiful arete on the right side of Cochise Dome. It requires some steady nerves and good face climbing skills.

Pitch 1 (5.10+R, 70') - Start on the right side of Cochise dome directly under the blunt arete. Scramble on to a block, clip a bolt, and launch right into the crux of the climb: stiff moves up and left to a 10+ mantle. A fall from the mantle will result in a crash landing on the starting block. Continue up and slightly left on easier but runout climbing. Some pro can be found just before arriving at a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10R, 170') - Ignore the heavily bolted line heading up and left. Instead follow four bolts toward the arete (5.10PG13). The third bolt is not visible from the belay. Once on the arete the climbing eases a bit and chickenheads offer some protection. There are some runouts on the easier terrain. Belay on good chickenheads to the left of the arete.

Follow What's My Line to the top.

For a topo of this climb visit www.geir.com/climbs.html

Protection 

Stoppers, slings for chickenheads, and some draws protect Double Jeopardy. After joining What's My Line singles of cams are useful. The original 3/8" bolts on this route still appear to be in good condition.

Photos of Double Jeopardy Slideshow

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Start of the route

Andy on his onsite of pitch 2