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Upper Cliff
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Bean Pole 
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Double Jam 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 1,607
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Double Jam...


Jam and grovel your way up the double cracks using hand and fist jams and even butt jams to gain a rest ledge on the right.... Climb back to the left and place your big cam then fire the last few feet....

A fun, beginner climb good for getting folks to think outside of the box....


Walk left along the cliff from Obscene Phone Call (5.8).... A short distance along look for an alcove with a double crack in a corner.... The cracks start from a ledge that is easy to access, you climb the two cracks to a short, off-width section to the top....


A few wide cams #3 and #3.5 Camalots are nice and an OW piece as well, #5 maybe....

Easily top-roped from trees.

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Joe on double jam
Joe on double jam
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By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Aug 23, 2008

I found a #5 to be too big to really use where I wanted it up top. A #4 fit pretty well.

Awkward, grubby top-out, but still fun.

By Russ Keane
Oct 20, 2013

This is one tough, tough 5.5. I would call it a sandbag, if it wasn't for the consistency otherwise, with respect to the ratings of the other crack climbs up there at Upper Cliff. Basically add 1 numeral to your thoughts on how this climb will feel. It was like a 5.6 anywhere else (except Gunks lol).

Awkward, and a little scary actually. Fun though! Although that top section after the ledge is plain old horrible. Makes you think. Makes you commit. And it makes you kind of shake in your boots.