Double Feature  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet FA:  Petefish et al. 1987 Submitted By:  Paul Heyliger on Jul 16, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>> 07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Double Feature begins in the first crack left of the obvious Vulture pillar/crack and two cracks right of Jerry's Kids on the West Face. This is the same start as Pee Pee's Plunge, but quickly steps left into the next crack system. Protection is good, but this route does not lace as easily as most Tower lines. The main crux comes at about 2/3 height, just above a locker nut and good rest, and involves splayed stemming and face moves that ease a bit at a bolt. Depending on the season, the crack just below the bolt can be grassy, hiding some decent HB placements. The route then angles up and left, across a superb shield of rock, passing two more bolts and one milder crux to the JK belay.

This is a high quality route that would be 3 stars anywhere else. At the Tower, there is just too much competition.

Protection 

Small-medium stoppers, RP's or HB's, TCU's, and a hand-sized cam. Tricams also work well.