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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcy Farcy 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) 
Bluebeard 
Bocomaru 
Buccaneer, The 
Captain Hook 
Double Exposure 
Double Exposure Direct 
Frustration 
Ham Sandwich 
Hernia - Direct Finish 
Hernia, The 
Insomnia 
Pass Time 
Pirate, The 
Swashbuckler 
Sword of Damocles 
Walk the Plank 
Winter Solstice 

Double Exposure 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b A1 [details]
FA: John Long, 1975
Page Views: 796
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: The arete for Double Exposure with the Pirate to t...

Description 

This spetacular route has a great location, climbing directly on the arete that forms the left hand edge of the Buttress of Cracks.

Start around the corner from The Pirate. A shoulder stand leads to two steep bolts of aid and then runout moves over to and up the arete (sling might work on a knob). Follow the arete to the top (10b), belaying at the Insomnia anchor. Great climbing with superb positions.


Location 

Extreme left edge of the Buttress of Cracks.


Protection 

Bolts, gear to 1". Aid slings or runners for the aid.



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