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Double Exposure 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Duemler
Season: not winter
Page Views: 872
Submitted By: Erock on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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First Born is the chimney on the left with Double ...

Description 

This climb has lots of variety. It starts the same as First Born to the left of KGB. The 2 distinct roofs are a can't miss. This route is not in the guide books because it was put up about 2 years ago. Scott and I believe the route goes at 11b; if you think any differently feel free to put in your 2 cents -- Scott likes to hear feedback about his routes.

Location 

Left of KGB, start at First Born, another recent first ascent (not in guidebooks) by Scott.

Protection 

Many bolts to chains.


Photos of Double Exposure Slideshow Add Photo
Double exposure is a double drag.  Bring LONG runner or suffer!!
BETA PHOTO: Double exposure is a double drag. Bring LONG runn...
Let the choss begin....
Let the choss begin....

Comments on Double Exposure Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 3, 2011
By David Arthur Sampson
Aug 12, 2007

I never see anyone on this route. Just wondering why; is it not fun or just hard enough to keep most people off of it?
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

David, I looked at it pretty close and concluded.... it needs cleaned badly. Roof moves look cool but lots of crumbly rock getting to them.

Bring your wire brush and let me know how it goes.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Aug 5, 2008

I did this route about a year ago, and the area just below the first roof could definitely use a few more ascents. The route as a whole is nice, and the second roof was pretty clean with fun moves. It felt fairly solid for 5.11b/c at Queen Creek to me.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Mike you are way more generous than me. I sessed this route out on a recent trip so today I decided to give it a whirl.

To put it simply, the route is choss. The upper roof has some redeeming qualities but very few. Getting to the upper roof is dangerous for the belayer, as it's nearly impossible to avoid sluffing the decomposing rock off and dropping it to the base.

In the event you are able to link the moves together and still hang on to solid holds (few and far between) you'll find that the bolt located directly below the first roof gives such horrendous rope drag when trying to move through the upper roof that your wildest dream is to just jump and end it all.

It is of my opinion that this route at best should be considered a project. It is criminal that it was put up and left to the public in it's current state. It requires a SERIOUS cleaning and/or chopping. Personally I don't care which.

Sorry Scott, but it's awful. I've already seen better work of yours so don't take my post as hate mail. I encourage you to please return & clean it up for the sake of your own name. Once done I'd be willing to pack a 4' long runner for the bolt below the roof and give it another go. Until then, I'll stick to your very nice .8 chimney to the left. Which in contrast to "double exposure" is a nice addition to the area.

YYMV,

Susan
By bio
From: mesa, az
Oct 30, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Susan, No offense taken, although calling it "criminal" is a bit much but what the hell this is the WWW. The rock quality under the first roof is poor, though I don't think dangerous as it's mostly pebble sized stuff that comes off. It's hard to believe but I did a lot of cleaning on the route. The bolts on the route are pretty frequent and solid so protection isn't an issue. It does need more ascents. The second roof is much more solid. As to the rope drag you are right, a longer runner before and after the first roof will alleviate much of that. I would have liked to put the bolt under the roof further right but the rock quality there didn't pass the hammer test.
S
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 1, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Bio,

Thanks for the history. I looked at that first roof to see if there was a realistic way to avoid the drag. Maybe you'd be able to avoid it if you had put the bolt right at the lip of the roof vs. below it but even then with the way that bulge ledges out would there would still be a lot of friction. Best case scenario is a super-super long runner and even that is no guarantee.

Notice I didn't say the route was unsafe for the leader? Only the belayer, those flakes are bigger than you remember. The bolts however are solid and nicely spaced.

I'm still not sold, too grungy and the top bulge may be missing a key hold (large scared area on the right where perhaps you would side pull?) You might be the only one that could tell that.

Oh yeah, on a side note. When I last did it, the upper section was swarming with wasps which made my "shopping" for good holds even more exciting.

~Susan
By Andrew Wright
From: Surprise, Arizona
Sep 22, 2009

I hopped on this route a couple days ago and got spanked! The first roof was fun but couldn't get myself up the second. I found a sequence that would most likely go, thin crimps and a side pull, but I think its way harder than 11b. Does anybody know if indeed a hold did brake off?
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Apr 11, 2010

Climbing this with other parties below would be a VERY BAD idea because that upper roof is still exfoliating. One piece was quite large and dangerous, not the pebbles advertised above.
By brucy
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

A route that should never have been. Standard Queen Creek ego-based built-in runout pro (especially on the crux where a nice ledge could easily munch your ankles). Even in its finest moments it's at best blase' climbing. The rock quality is "scheise" and with aggressive cleaning (as in sledges, chisels, and crowbars) could at least been made somewhat safe. One can't depend on subsequent ascent parties to do the cleaning of a route that should have been done beforehand- this is an important responsibility of the first ascentionists.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 19, 2011

Call off the bomb squad, this thing was kind of fun. The hanging dihedral was sweet. Embrace the choss.
By Joe Dinius
Jun 12, 2011

I thought the route was really cool; a fun climb with the two open books and the roof to finish was fun. Rope drag was a serious issue, but otherwise well worth doing; just hang a long runner under the first roof and another below the second roof. The rock quality felt good; I didn't worry too much sending rock down.
By Micah Kurtz
Sep 28, 2011

Can you get to the anchors from the top of first born?
By bio
From: mesa, az
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Yes Micah, you can.