Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Watch Crystal
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apes of Wrath 
Black Arete, The 
Crime & Punishment 
Doctor Doolittle 
Dogs of Doom 
Double Exposure 
Double Exposure Direct 
Durangutan 
Evolution 
Extra Cool 
Hidden Gem 
Jailhouse Monkey (on dope) 
Kong Route, The 
Left Picto 
Martyr's Crown 
Picto Crack 
Power Glide 
Primate Highway 
Push-Me-Pull-You 
Right Picto 
Simians to the Sun 
Watch Crystal Crack 
Yellow Pages 
Unsorted Routes:

Double Exposure 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: all year
Page Views: 1,357
Submitted By: AJ Onsight on Apr 10, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
3rd bolt looking bomber now!

Description 

This is on the far right of Watch Crystal Wall, and it goes around corner. It is characterized by an overhanging crimps and jugs.


Location 

Start on Yellow Pages (5.6) then traverse left up to bolt. Make a move around corner.


Protection 

3 draws.



Photos of Double Exposure Slideshow Add Photo
Ben readies himself for the doubled part of the exposure!
Ben readies himself for the doubled part of the ex...
New bolt on right... lower away....I put 2 leaver biners at the end of the links.
New bolt on right... lower away....I put 2 leaver ...
The TR hook I worked off, an' if you been on this climb, this spot is on the edge...an' exposed.
The TR hook I worked off, an' if you been on this ...
Comments on Double Exposure Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel E. Hopper
From: Hesperus
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Can start from route immediately left of "Yellow Pages" on ground level. "Double Exposure Direct", 5.12.

By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Mar 27, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Great movement, fun deadpoint move around the arete after the first bolt, nice exposure, solid rock... what's missing?!?: chains on the anchor so you can get down hassle free. As of now, you have to rap the fixed line off the Watch Crystal Gully or down the face of the WC itself.

By Devin Fin
From: DURANGO
Apr 24, 2013

Alright dear East A. community, the 3rd bolt must be replaced an the spinner anchor bolt. EDIT: done an' done. Anchor up top has a new 6 inch Rawl bolt an' chains... the 3rd bolt. New bolt an' hanger. Same hole was used....shoooooooots was this a fun bolt to re-place...hook an' drill on rap with the death swing looming.... This hanger is the same color as the rock. Have fun. Please don't take the chains from the top. Respect, DF

By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Jun 20, 2013

Thanks for your hard work, Devin. I (we) appreciate all you do for the community. Got on this again since the chains were added and have a few things to say:

If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains and rapped down. Again, it was incredibly difficult to pull the rope. If the chains extended over the edge, it would make things so much better. If I get the chance, I'll put new chains up there.

Next time I do the route, I'll just walk off and avoid the horrid drag.

Also might be worthy to bring a long draw for the bolt on the right side of the arete before heading around the corner to the Watch Crystal face.

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Nov 11, 2013

Easiest descent is to walk 20' right on ledge and rap off Picto anchors.