Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Durrance Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Centennial 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Wiessner T 

Double-Edged Blade 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b A3 [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman and Frank Sanders October 17-18, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,572
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Frank (the guru) Sanders cleaning the first pitch.

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An aesthetic nail-up on the steepest aspect of the Tower. The line follows the shallow corner between Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic and Blade Runner, surmounting a double-roof down low on the first pitch.
P1: Easy free-climbing for about 50' leads into aiding. The initial bit to the double-roof is rather tricky, with cams and assorted pins. The crux section is the roof and the following 20', which requires some tricky, marginal placements. After the crux, the crack opens into an excellent blade seam forever, with some arrow work near the top. The first pitch was strung into one 80m lead, with the belayer scrambling up to the highest possible stance and the leader maxing the 70m rope. Build a pin/cam belay when the rope runs out, about 15' shy of where the crack fades out. 260' 5.6 A3
P2: Clean aid on cams from the belay, tension traverse right into Blade City, nail it a bit, tension traverse right again into Blue Stem Skyway, and follow it on clean aid to a large belay ledge. 50' A2

Location 

On the southwest face, the crack between Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic and Blade Runner. Easily identifiable by its double-roof down low.

Protection 

Set of cams through #4, set of stoppers, lots and lots of blades, many arrows, angles #1-#4, 6 birdbeaks, tie-offs.


Photos of Double-Edged Blade Slideshow Add Photo
Trevor "The Wizard" Bowman, skillfully navigating the double roof on the 1st pitch of Double Edge Blade, SW Face, Devils Tower, WY. October, 2008. Photo by <a href='http://www.devilstowerlodge.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >devilstowerlodge.com</a>
Trevor "The Wizard" Bowman, skillfully n...
Trevor passing the double-roof on the first ascent.
Trevor passing the double-roof on the first ascent...
Trevor Bowman, on the 1st Ascent, experiencing "approach-avoidance" as he nears the roof on "Double Edge Blade"; SW Face of Devils Tower, WY. October, 2008. Photo compliments of <a href='http://www.devilstowerclimbing.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >devilstowerclimbing.com</a>
Trevor Bowman, on the 1st Ascent, experiencing &qu...
Frank leading the circuitous 2nd pitch...up and over and up and over...
Frank leading the circuitous 2nd pitch...up and ov...
"They're off and Running". Trevor "Energizer Bunny" Bowman, on the 1st Ascent of "Double Edge Blade" leads the longest pitch that I've ever seen; 80 meters on a 70 Meter rope. A Great Gear Anchor, is up there, Somewhere... "Hey, Frank, could You move up a bit...more..." <br />SW Face of Devils Tower, WY.October 2008. Photo courtesy of <a href='http://www.devilstowerlodge.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >devilstowerlodge.com</a>
"They're off and Running". Trevor "...

Comments on Double-Edged Blade Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bickle
Oct 23, 2008

Hell.....Yeah.....get some way get after the new routes at the tower.
By Frank Sanders
Oct 28, 2008

Trevor did a Long and Skillful Lead on this one !! He left out the Best part; inevitably, it was a #1 Beak that was the last piece under the roof, followed by a poor, shallow, downward pointing Bugaboo just over the roof !! Yeah, Trevor !!! The climb is Fun and Exhilarating !!Its location on the SW face makes it warm most times of the year, and its more than steep enough to be "snow-free" all year 'round !! I Highly Recommend this route, (and any of those near it; i.e. Kirk-Sanders, Blade Runner, Blade City) to anyone that aspires to prepare themselves for some Big Wall nail-ups.Great Climb, Great Partner, Great Day. THANK YOU TREVOR !!
By Brian Sadowsky
From: salt lake city
Nov 8, 2008

Nice job guys.

All those years at the tower and Frank is still doing FA's -----gotta love it!

How many unclimbed routes are left on the tower approx?

Brian