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South Face
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Double Down 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, February 2000
Page Views: 2,043
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 9, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Me on upper cracks of DD.
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Description 

Double Down is on the right side of south face of Surprising Crag, just left of Frictionary.

Climb a steep face past two bolts to a ledge. Angle up right to a second steep face, which can be climbed either left (5.9) or right (5.7) of the bolt line.

The crux is a thin face move past the first bolt; easier if you're tall. This move can be bypassed by climbing the corner to the right then stepping back left at the second bolt.

The entire route can be done as a 5.7 by climbing the corner right of the initial face and climbing the crack right of the upper face.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of Double Down Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Amato cranking the crux face move past the first bolt.
Mike Amato cranking the crux face move past the fi...
Double Down.  The 10a crux is a thin face move past the first bolt; easier if you're tall.  This move can be bypassed by climbing the corner to the right. <br /> <br />The route can be done as a 5.7 by climbing the corner right of the lower face and the crack right of the upper face.
BETA PHOTO: Double Down. The 10a crux is a thin face move pas...
Jenna at the top of Double Down.
Jenna at the top of Double Down.
Jeremy belays me on Double Down (5.10a).
Jeremy belays me on Double Down (5.10a).
Comments on Double Down Add Comment
Show which comments
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Aug 21, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A waste of good hardware. This is one of the most contrived routes in the park, and the bolts spoil the natural corner right next to it.

It felt like 5.8 without using the corner. I really wish people would think more carefully before bolting right next to natural lines. Not every square inch of rock needs a bolt.

By Adam Kagy
Jun 19, 2008

It's a shame that this was bolted. A prime example of the over bolting done at sport park...Other than that it's easily protected all the way to the anchors. Makes a nice first trad lead.

By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Sep 1, 2008

Did the 7 crack variation with good gear all the way. Good beginner gear route.

By Bracken
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2009

By being bolted, you get to do one interesting face move at the start (I'm short, so getting to the good hands was a bit tenuous). After that, the route is uninteresting.

By TJ Binkley
From: Denver Co
Sep 21, 2010

Without the bolts up the face, the climb is less than inspiring...fun/bouldery start if you can "suffer" through the bolts.