Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dude's Throne
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Any Doodle Do 
Buster Brown 
Double Dominatrix 
Dude's Dihedral 
Dude's Five Nine 
Dude's Jam Crack 
Dude's Jam Parade AKA The Wiessner Connect 
Dude's Way 
Golden Gate 
Green Chile 
Howdy Doody Time 
Impeachment Day Parade 
In Harmsen's Way 
Jolly Rancher 
Jolly Squeeze Party 
Jugs Out For The Lads 
Major Dude 
Mighty Aphrodite 
Missing Link 
Open Space Cowboy 
Raven's Brew 
Red Hot Chili Peppers 
Short Dude 
Sky Chi 
Uplift Mofo Party Plan 

Double Dominatrix 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, May 2004
New Route: Yes
Season: May through October
Page Views: 1,829
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Nov 4, 2010
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This a probably my favorite route at Dude's Throne and the one I was most drawn to establish.

I have redpointed it 13 times as of 2010. Scramble up to a ledge & clip 1st bolt. Move up right on easy terrain to 2nd bolt. The first 5.12 crux ascends a vertical edge via lieback moves. Enter a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral that is followed to a double set of roofs. The second 5.12 crux uses small holds to reach jugs over the roofs. The third 5.12 crux uses small holds to get stood over the roof on the jugs. Continue up a steep face to a small 5.11 bulge that leads to a good ledge. Move right a few feet on the ledge & rest up! Finish up a bulging .12a face, moving up left past the last 2 bolts.


Location 

This ascends the center of the south face.


Protection 

12 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.



Comments on Double Dominatrix Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

This is a truly amazing climb and one of the best at Dude's. Lots of variety and cool sequences, make this an ultra classic. The bolting is perfect, and the line climbs really well. As far as the grade is concerned, I think there are no 13 moves on it, but with three distinct sections of 12+ climbing with no rest between, 13a is not a stretch.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Awesome climb! 13a... probably not. Everyone I saw on it on Saturday used some holds out left at the 2nd bolt with a delicate traverse back to the right to clip the 3rd bolt. Perhaps climbing straight up is much more difficult? Also, there is an uncomfortable "look ma, no-hands!" rest in the dihedral.