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John's Tower
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Unsorted Routes:

Double Dippin' 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Skip Harper, 1996
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This great route is steep and sustained with the crux located about halfway up. It climbs a crack that splits into two parallel cracks in a large corner (hard to explain, you'll see when you get there). It is possible to climb the left facing dihedral/ramp to the left at 5.10a (Route name: On the Side) and set up a top rope for this route.

Location 

This route is located on the southeast face of John's Tower approximately in the center of the wall. Steppin' Out is a good first pitch to get to the start of this route which is located on a large ledge behind two huge boulders. To descend you can either down climb to the southwest towards Little John's Tower or you can rap back to the start of Double Dippin'. From the base of the route, walk southwest around the huge boulders and then traverse back east below the boulders to a left facing dihedral and down climb the crack (this downclimb is probably 5.5 or 5.6).

Protection 

Finger to hand size cams, and a couple large hexes will protect the first 10' perfectly but are not necessary.


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a really cool route in a neat location, high up on John's Tower in a little bowl formed by massive boulders. A nice, steep, square corner with clever gear at the start that slowly gets more difficult until kind of a 'faith' crux about 30 feet up. Followed by about 30 feet of hero climbing with nice dual cracks. Super fun.
By bart cubrich 1
Jul 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

There is a bong on this thing that looks safe to clip, so keep an eye out for it to save wasting a placement.