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This great route is steep and sustained with the crux located about halfway up. It climbs a crack that splits into two parallel cracks in a large corner (hard to explain, you'll see when you get there). It is possible to climb the left facing dihedral/ramp to the left at 5.10a (Route name: On the Side) and set up a top rope for this route.
This route is located on the southeast face of John's Tower approximately in the center of the wall. Steppin' Out is a good first pitch to get to the start of this route which is located on a large ledge behind two huge boulders. To descend you can either down climb to the southwest towards Little John's Tower or you can rap back to the start of Double Dippin'. From the base of the route, walk southwest around the huge boulders and then traverse back east below the boulders to a left facing dihedral and down climb the crack (this downclimb is probably 5.5 or 5.6).
Finger to hand size cams, and a couple large hexes will protect the first 10' perfectly but are not necessary.
Aug 30, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This is a really cool route in a neat location, high up on John's Tower in a little bowl formed by massive boulders. A nice, steep, square corner with clever gear at the start that slowly gets more difficult until kind of a 'faith' crux about 30 feet up. Followed by about 30 feet of hero climbing with nice dual cracks. Super fun.