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Double the fun on Double Dip
Highly popular, Double Dip is a fun, somewhat polished and fairly runout climb up a lieback flake to dished-out face near the left side of the main Echo Slab. Be aware the route wanders a fair bit to seek out the lowest angled possibility up the face and runouts of 20' or so are the norm.
There's a two bolt belay on a flat area next to a dike at the top and the descent is down ramps and slabs to the climber's left. Three stars out of five.
The obvious flake to face on the left side of the face.
5 bolts, gear to 4", 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 3/8")
Climbing out of the shadows.
Clipping the second bolt
BETA PHOTO: Echo Rock - West Face Left
Second Clip relief starting off the top of the fla...
good beta about the #3 cam in the flake
'Pooner' closing in on "The Dip"
Ron following Double Dip; keeping your f...
Ron following Double Dip; the bolts are ...
Single dippin' as the sun goes down.
getting ready to place the one supplemental piece....
At the right time of the morning the light is just...
Aerili on "Double Dip".
Photo by Blitzo.
Contemplating the first Dip on "Double Dip".
Gary leading Double Dip; February 1986.
Anne following Double Dip on a cold February morni...
Anne liebacking the flake on "Double Dip," Februar...
BETA PHOTO: Moving to second bolt. You can either go in the d...
|By Brian Reynolds|
Nov 4, 2002
What a fabulous route!! For protection, the flake will take a #3 or #3.5 camalot, preferably with a sling or draw to reduce drag. Other than that, don't bother bringing up anything but draws. There are five bolts on the route, plus a two bolt anchor. 4 stars out of 5 (or 3 out of 3)
|By Mike Epke|
From: Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2003
Great route on very slabby rock. I believe there are only four bolts; however, plus the piece of gear you can place behind the flake. Awesome route.
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 12, 2003
As I stated elsewhere, a cam is not a must but certainly a smart move. #3 camalot as suggested in the flake works fine. It is a very enjoyable, fun route and I highly suggest it for the intermediate leader due to the runouts. Others might do better to second or top rope.
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 2, 2003
This was my sons second lead and he did it well. It is a good one for beginners to start on and it also is just one hell of a fun route regardless of the grade. On a stupid dad note, as he was setting up for me to second, I decided to solo it. Now that is not the stupid part. The stupid part is I forgot he would soon be throwing the rope and as I got near the third bolt...........wishhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh and Oh! Oh! as most of it caught me and just about threw me for a certain head banger. This type of behavior and stupidity I do not reccomend. But for myself, I'll probably do something similar soon enough. Too many in the 60's,70's,80's and all the way to the begining of the 90's. "Brain meltdown". Next!!!!!!!!!!!
Sep 12, 2003
Bring pro to 4" for the flake unless you want to run it out to the second bolt. The climbing 'ON' the flake is easier than 5.6. If you fall before reaching the second bolt, you will deck. If you choose to climb the flake like an offwidth(?!)it's much harder.
Classic easy slab clibming
Solid for the grade
|By Brian Reynolds|
Sep 15, 2003
People are always talking about groundfall on this climb -- the only way there's any danger of that is if you only use the bolts. As you can see from the first action photo down below, the entire flake is very easily protectable with large cams (#3 or #3.5 Camalots work great), and you can reach the second bolt easily while standing on top of the flake.
|By Graham Roff|
From: San Diego
Mar 21, 2004
Was the first bolt there originally? It seems unnecessary as one more easy move puts you at the bottom of the flake where solid gear can be placed.Definitely one of the most fun slab routes for the grade.
Mar 21, 2004
The 1st bolt was added many years after the route was originally done (but has been there for a long time too). I my opinion it is totally unecessary. But in light of the fact that it is a very easy climb and no one is really complaining about it, perhaps it is better to leave well enough alone.
From: Spfld, Ma
Apr 29, 2004
Another fun route. We had the pleasure of meeting a Swarm of Bee's as they did a drive - by, while we were packing up after the climb. They Buzzed by two climber's and kept going without any incident's.
|By Bo Johnston|
Feb 6, 2005
I didn't think placing gear in the crack was very necessary, although not a bad idea if you're just starting out in the sport. A fun route well worth climbing.
|By Jason Shatek|
Apr 7, 2005
This is a very fun route. I would throw something into the flake on the way up. You'll deck for sure if you don't make the next bolt. I threw in a #5 friend, but the flake will take several different sizes. I was also able to place a yellow alien to the left and up after the second bolt. The route is pretty easy but be sure you trust your feet cuz there isn't many hand holds on this climb!
|By Kellen Holt|
Dec 31, 2005
A #3 Camalot and a #10 Trango flexcam protected the flake just fine. The moves off the flake are stout, but not impossible for the grade. Definitely not sport bolted at the top, but the higher you go, the easier the grade.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Apr 16, 2006
A rare bolted 5.6 line in Joshua Tree.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 11, 2006
rating: 5.6 PG13
EXCELLENT route but I would highly recommend throwing in a cam (3.5 or 4") into the wide crack on your way up as the second bolt is way the hell up there. Although typical slab, stay sharp on the slab above as the bolts are slightly spaced and a fall would not be that enjoyable. Two bolts for anchors up on ledge for belay and then walk off to the North.
|By Mark L|
Apr 30, 2007
If you are not used to josh friction and leading 5.7 or less you might want to have someone else lead if like me you get psyched out easy. Getting up to the bolt above the flake is straight forward and easier than 5.5 I think. I found the head game started at getting into the depression. That move seemed quite technical and felt psychologically more like a 5.7 and a little tenuous. A fall would have caused some nice scrapes for sure. I may just not have seen the move however.
After the depression, getting to the next bolt (up and left) required some time as well to see the feet, and played with my head a little. After that next bolt the feet and angle become easier. It could be that over the years this climb just gets more and more polished but the rating never goes up.
|By Gary Schenk|
Mar 3, 2008
Fun route. We did it on a fine Saturday in February. Echo Rock was incredibly empty! No lines for Double Dip, or Stichter Quits.
|By Brian Hench|
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 12, 2008
For what it's worth you can get a marginal Yellow TCU in a shallow crack before the third bolt. I would not want to fall on it, but it would be better than nothing.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009
The crux clip is height dependent. Had my heart racing before and after that last bolt. Exciting!
|By Bryan Davenport|
Feb 15, 2010
This has to be higher than 80'. Used my 60m Mammut and had to rappel down to the top of the flake to reset. Used a cam and a couple hexes in the flake. Great lead.
From: Santa Ana
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 PG13
The flake takes #4 Camalots at the bottom and #3 towards the top. Between bolts 2 and 3 there’s a placement for a #.3 Camalot to the left which will protect the crux move. If you miss the clip on the forth bolt you're toast!! You’ll roll and slide down the slab for at least 30’. The climb is 120+
|By Rodger Raubach|
Sep 8, 2010
Nice climb; bring a couple of cams (which I didn't have back in the '80s when I first climbed it!). High quality climb.
Added as an afterthought: I second Randy's comments about DON'T MESS WITH THE BOLTS!
|By Jim Amidon|
Oct 28, 2011
NO FREAKIN WAY IN HELL THIS IS 5.6
I've led Walk on the Wild Side,
Run for You Life,
No way this is 5.6
|By Patrick Sanan|
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 19, 2011
Lots of fun! The climbing is consistent over a good distance, lots of places to rest, and the bolts seem reasonably spaced (I only used one piece of gear, a #2 cam behind the big flake as high as I could reach before starting up it), but it still feels serious when you're at my level (just getting into leading 5.6-5.7 leading).
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.6 PG13
Another great lead climb similar to stitcher quits on the same slab. Definitely be comfortable climbing on the run out sections since once can easily be freaked out by them. Walk off is not nearly as bad as for stitcher quits.
|By The Ruin-er|
Jun 12, 2012
five quick draws and a number 3 camalot and your set this route is too much fun, especially when you do this then sticher quits. the combo is a good time
|By Todd Cook|
From: Hawthorne, CA
Dec 23, 2012
Be careful about the walk off, if it has rained recently (it's rare in JTree, but it does happen). I led this on 12/19/2012 and although the face was dry and creaky as usual, the backside walk off is in the shade and we found the descent slabs rather sopping wet. If the night had been really cold, it probably would have been icy. Now, of course, Donini's rule is, don't rap if there's a good walk off, however, here, watch the weather and those winter temps. 50 degrees may be the perfect temperature for rubber for slab climbing, however everything goes to hell with a wet descent at 32 degrees.
For what it's worth, I prefer throwing in Camalots: 3,4,5 behind the flake. And at the double dip, to the left, I put in a #2 yellow metolius, mostly for psychological protection. Of course the real run out is getting to the last bolt; looks like 30 feet, probably is only 20 feet, but if you fall, it's going to feel like 40 feet.
|By Mikie Eaton|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jan 8, 2013
If you plan on top roping, a 70m rope was still short unless your belaying from the top of the flake