Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Matterhorn Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Double Dihedral  
North Arete 
Unsorted Routes:

Double Dihedral  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c Easy Snow PG13

   
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 686
Submitted By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jul 3, 2012
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the second dihedral

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Start on the right side of North Arete. After the approach up the narrow snow gully (just left of West Couloir) climb in a big left-facing dihedral (that is likely to have some snow or ice in it). Climb up the dihedral. Than traverse left to a ledge, and up to the second dihedral with a wide crack. This 2nd dihedral could be reached from the left side of the North Arete as well. Climb up this dihedral (crux) to a head-wall. There is a block to sling right under the headwall. Sling this block and climb up the headwall directly taking the line of your desire. I took the line right over the block we used for anchor. Had to climb a ways up before getting in first useful protection, but climbing wasn't too bad. Maybe 5.6-7. After that simul climb or solo the 3-4th class ridge to the summit of Matterhorn. Descent East Couloir.


Protection 

Cams: 1-2 set of cams up to #2. #4-6 (to protect the second dihedral)optional, if you want to feel safe. We did not have any pieces bigger than # 2 and climbing in the dihedral was PG13. Two chock stones could be slung with a double length runner.
A set of nuts
Desire for a cool adventure



Photos of Double Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Double Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Double Dihedral
Approach
Approach
Looking down the dihedral
Looking down the dihedral
Comments on Double Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -