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Matterhorn Peak
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L to R R to L Alpha
Double Dihedral  
North Arete 
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Double Dihedral  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c Easy Snow PG13

Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jul 3, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Looking at the second dihedral

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Start on the right side of North Arete. After the approach up the narrow snow gully (just left of West Couloir) climb in a big left-facing dihedral (that is likely to have some snow or ice in it). Climb up the dihedral. Than traverse left to a ledge, and up to the second dihedral with a wide crack. This 2nd dihedral could be reached from the left side of the North Arete as well. Climb up this dihedral (crux) to a head-wall. There is a block to sling right under the headwall. Sling this block and climb up the headwall directly taking the line of your desire. I took the line right over the block we used for anchor. Had to climb a ways up before getting in first useful protection, but climbing wasn't too bad. Maybe 5.6-7. After that simul climb or solo the 3-4th class ridge to the summit of Matterhorn. Descent East Couloir.


Cams: 1-2 set of cams up to #2. #4-6 (to protect the second dihedral)optional, if you want to feel safe. We did not have any pieces bigger than # 2 and climbing in the dihedral was PG13. Two chock stones could be slung with a double length runner.
A set of nuts
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Double Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Double Dihedral
Looking down the dihedral
Looking down the dihedral
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