Double Dihedral   5.8 Easy Snow PG13

339 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  SirTobyThe3rd on Jul 3, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Double Dihedral

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Start on the right side of North Arete. After the approach up the narrow snow gully (just left of West Couloir) climb in a big left-facing dihedral (that is likely to have some snow or ice in it). Climb up the dihedral. Than traverse left to a ledge, and up to the second dihedral with a wide crack. This 2nd dihedral could be reached from the left side of the North Arete as well. Climb up this dihedral (crux) to a head-wall. There is a block to sling right under the headwall. Sling this block and climb up the headwall directly taking the line of your desire. I took the line right over the block we used for anchor. Had to climb a ways up before getting in first useful protection, but climbing wasn't too bad. Maybe 5.6-7. After that simul climb or solo the 3-4th class ridge to the summit of Matterhorn. Descent East Couloir.

Protection 

Cams: 1-2 set of cams up to #2. #4-6 (to protect the second dihedral)optional, if you want to feel safe. We did not have any pieces bigger than # 2 and climbing in the dihedral was PG13. Two chock stones could be slung with a double length runner.
A set of nuts
Desire for a cool adventure

Photos of Double Dihedral Slideshow

Add Photo

Approach	BETA PHOTO: Looking at the second dihedral	Looking down the dihedral