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Double Cross 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Carl Buckland, 1982
Page Views: 1,288
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 19, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: 1) Double Cross 2) Go For the Roses

Description 

This is the lowest of all the Watchtower routes. It climbs a right facing, right leaning crack, and finishes with an off-width almost squeeze chimney. This climb protects well, but messes with your balance all the way up. Easy walk-off.


Protection 

Bring medium gear for the main crack, and a large piece. I used a hex, for the exit crack.



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W/o lines
BETA PHOTO: W/o lines
Start is potentially dangerous. A lot of people get hurt in Ferguson Canyon every year, mostly broken bones and sprained neck and back injuries because the routes look easier and safer than they are. Suggest top rope Double Cross. Walk up to the right. Tie to tree base, run webbing into crack - rope there. This safer and saves on rope wear. Double Cross is a good, short challenge. The exit is tricky.
BETA PHOTO: Start is potentially dangerous. A lot of people ge...
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By Steve Allison
Sep 28, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Shot but tough. Deceptively Dangerous Beginning. We top roped Double Cross by tying into the base of the tree at the top. (Walk up is immediately to the right up trail.)Webbing slung down into the exit crack where the rope began. The bulge at the beginning is fun to get over but dangereous unless you can get protection above it. But by the time you do that you're over it. Easy to slip backward off bulge and pancake on deck. It looks easier than it is. The bottom 1/3 of the crack is rounded out. The more you grab it the more you slip out. Opposed right leg stretched out finally got me over the bulge.

By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Definitely a solid climb- solid for its grade, solid gear, and mostly solid holds- save some solid fuel for the exit- it can be a humid pump.