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Apr 6, 2011
Russ
Another victim this weekend. Please God... make it stop! Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Joined Oct 5, 2004
3,276 points
Apr 7, 2011
Greg D wrote:
Not funny anymore. I'll bite. Are you being serious?

The poor dick nose didn't even know what a camelot was. To his peril. RIP.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,896 points
Apr 7, 2011
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W.
caughtinside wrote:
The poor dick nose didn't even know what a camelot was. To his peril. RIP.


Nice. Sounds like you are well read in mp folklore. Btw, whomever started that dick nose or was it dicknose thread was a real dork.
Greg D
From Here
Joined Apr 5, 2006
960 points
Apr 7, 2011
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
A 12ft. aluminum extension ladder will reach almost 20 feet when extended. They are light weight, fit nicely next to your Thule Torpedo box and I have seen fat crack climbers carrying more weight all the way up the climb. Oh, and ladders are trad gear. The FA of Devils Tower involved a ladder. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,616 points
Apr 7, 2011
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
1Eric Rhicard wrote:
The FA of Devils Tower involved a ladder.


And wood pegs! Maybe that's what DC needs to end this controversy.

--Marc
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Administrator
Apr 7, 2011
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013
1Eric Rhicard wrote:
A 12ft. aluminum extension ladder will reach almost 20 feet when extended. They are light weight, fit nicely next to your Thule Torpedo box and I have seen fat crack climbers carrying more weight all the way up the climb. Oh, and ladders are trad gear. The FA of Devils Tower involved a ladder.

Close up of the start.  FYI, that ladder is bomber...
Close up of the start. FYI, that ladder is bomber, welded metal. To tough to kick apart, and to heavy to carry it out. Is this the original?
Adam Stackhouse
Joined Jan 3, 2001
13,482 points
Sep 12, 2011
Why did this thread stop!? I want to get talking about bolting the start of Dog Leg. That's dangerous stuff! J.J
Joined Aug 23, 2008
185 points
Sep 12, 2011
My kinda simian
SirMixALot wrote:
Why did this thread stop!? I want to get talking about bolting the start of Dog Leg. That's dangerous stuff!


I realize this is the internet and nothing seems to be off-limits, but lets have a bit of respect. How do you think the friends and family of climbers that have perished on DC would feel if they read this? Dog Leg is perfectly safe and I don't appreciate your attempts at humor.
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Sep 12, 2011
Ryan Kelly wrote:
I realize this is the internet and nothing seems to be off-limits, but lets have a bit of respect. How do you think the friends and family of climbers that have perished on DC would feel if they read this? Dog Leg is perfectly safe and I don't appreciate your attempts at humor.

You're just being a big, fat, ugly troll!
J.J
Joined Aug 23, 2008
185 points
Sep 13, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron
SirMixALot wrote:
Why did this thread stop!? I want to get talking about bolting the start of Dog Leg. That's dangerous stuff!


Nevermind Dogleg...what about Double Dogleg? Twice as devious, at least twice as dangerous!

Someone should chop the bolts on Double Cross and put them below the crux on Double Dogleg before someone gets hurt. That crack flares, and getting any gear in it besides a pink tricam is all but impossible!

Bolt it.
Chris D
From the couch
Joined Apr 14, 2009
2,191 points
Sep 13, 2011
There is currently a new bolt on DC, I climbed it the other day and it was great to clip right before the crux. Please dont chop it again who ever is doing it. Without the bolt this climb is definitly rated X Grover
Joined Jul 12, 2010
326 points
Sep 13, 2011
Pizmoe wrote:
There is currently a new bolt on DC, I climbed it the other day and it was great to clip right before the crux. Please dont chop it again who ever is doing it. Without the bolt this climb is definitly rated X

Troll?
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Sep 13, 2011
My kinda simian
Fat Dad wrote:
Troll?


I did a background check based on the information in his user profile; I think this guy is legit.
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Sep 23, 2011
BUMP :) J.J
Joined Aug 23, 2008
185 points
Sep 24, 2011
Crux Move
The reason this bolt keeps being chopped is that some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that there should be no bolt.

The reason the bolt keeps getting added is because some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that the climb should have a bolt.

At some point the real "owners" of the land are going to get fed up with the antics and have the route, crag, or the whole park shut down to climbers. This will happen at some point(whether this year or 20 years down the road), and it is a one way road. There can be no back and forth action. Access will not appear and disappear like this bolt does. As climbers we need to have the maturity to accept we do not own the rock, access is fragile. Leave it alone as it is. Ego is involved on both sides of the equation, and continued action will only have one result that will be unpleasant for both sides.
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Sep 24, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron
Phil Lauffen wrote:
At some point the real "owners" of the land are going to get fed up with the antics and have the route, crag, or the whole park shut down to climbers.


If the endless bolting and chopping of Double Cross results in the closing of Joshua Tree National Park to climbing, then so be it!

It's time we all step back and take an honest accounting of the situation. The carnage wrought by this widowmaker just isn't worth it.

WAKE UP PEOPLE!!

WHERE WILL IT ALL END?!

Oh...THE HUMANITY!!!

Get your laps in while you can.



The end is near!
Chris D
From the couch
Joined Apr 14, 2009
2,191 points
Sep 24, 2011
Bolts don't get added and chopped to Dbl Cross;...it's all a big Troll......it's just a silly crack;...if it were in The Valley or Indian Creek....it would never even be looked upon;.......it's Chossuatree....get over yourselves and go climbing...ggod-bye toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Joined Nov 26, 2006
9,737 points
Sep 24, 2011
Sign near the Third Flatiron
toddgordon wrote:
Chossuatree


This from Mr. Chossuatree FA

I suspect that many of those FA's were bolted on lead with bolts bootied from DC!
Chris D
From the couch
Joined Apr 14, 2009
2,191 points
Sep 24, 2011
Crux Move
toddgordon wrote:
Bolts don't get added and chopped to Dbl Cross;...it's all a big Troll......it's just a silly crack;...if it were in The Valley or Indian Creek....it would never even be looked upon;.......it's Chossuatree....get over yourselves and go climbing...ggod-bye


Hey I'm at work all day and getting paid nothing extra for it. I might as well spray on the proj if I can't climb on a beautiful saturday...
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Sep 24, 2011
Phil Lauffen wrote:
The reason this bolt keeps being chopped is that some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that there should be no bolt. The reason the bolt keeps getting added is because some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that the climb should have a bolt. At some point the real "owners" of the land are going to get fed up with the antics and have the route, crag, or the whole park shut down to climbers. This will happen at some point(whether this year or 20 years down the road), and it is a one way road. There can be no back and forth action. Access will not appear and disappear like this bolt does. As climbers we need to have the maturity to accept we do not own the rock, access is fragile. Leave it alone as it is. Ego is involved on both sides of the equation, and continued action will only have one result that will be unpleasant for both sides.


LOL

Oh the Double Cross debate sucked in another "SUCKER"!!

Maybe you will get out of the Peoples Republic of Boulder and climb in JTree or other places than Boulder Canyon.
K Weber
Joined Jun 17, 2011
15 points
Sep 24, 2011
Crux Move
GrandeCorda wrote:
LOL Oh the Double Cross debate sucked in another "SUCKER"!! Maybe you will get out of the Peoples Republic of Boulder and climb in JTree or other places than Boulder Canyon.


But Boulder is the best place to climb. Everybody knows that. Why else would you move here except to sample our fine gyms?
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Sep 26, 2011
Summit of Mt. Langley
The thing that gets me is the fact that know one considers the impact all this drilling and chopping has on the rock. Everybody stands up for what they believe is right and yet the rock has a dozen chopped bolts all in the same spot, which sucks aesthetically, plus each time a new bolt is added the rock gets weaker and weaker. I seriously thought that climbers of all people would be more thoughtful.

Disappointed :(
Justin Tomlinson
From Monrovia, CA
Joined Apr 4, 2010
334 points
Dec 4, 2012
I when I did last year there where no bolts. It could use one down low to make it more popular. Tradman
From Lake Forest
Joined May 7, 2012
3 points
Dec 4, 2012
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Tradman wrote:
I when I did last year there where no bolts. It could use one down low to make it more popular.


good thinking, I'll head out there this afternoon to add one.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,503 points
Dec 4, 2012
Put in something more permanent than a bolt, like a chiseled out nut placement halfway up the death slab. How you gonna chop that? Crotch Robbins
Joined Apr 1, 2003
129 points


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