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KT Miller crushing Double Cracks, May 2010
Double Cracks is located on the north end of the formation. It starts off with two parallel, strenuous, steep and slippery finger cracks. After this the angle eases and some stemming and jamming with a hand hold thrown in here and there gets one to the top.
Standard rack works, TCUs for the start. There are fixed anchors at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Double Cracks
Nearing the top of a great route and challenging l...
|Comments on Double Cracks
|By Rob T|
Jul 12, 2006
There are anchors at the top to get down, but they are inconveniently located for top-roping. The anchor is 2 metolius rap hangers about 20' up and climbers right from the end of the technical difficulties. Probably best to bring the second up, then rap.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Jul 29, 2006
I'm all for a bit of sandbagging, but after doing this route multiple times, both on TR and lead, I feel that the moves are definitely harder than .10a! Does anyone really think this is "just as easy" as Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice?
Also, there's an old bolt immediately right of the top of the crack. It makes a great directional.
|By Rob T|
Jul 31, 2006
i guess i could see it being harder is if you don't fit into the initial chimney. after leaving the deck, i can get a no hands rest anywhere up to the hand crack just by wedging my torso in there.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 6, 2007
tough for bigger people on lead placing gear. the wedge is solid, but when you try to squeeze a cam in its not so secure.
Jun 5, 2007
Back in the day my buddy use to down climb this route to get off the top. Insane!!! This route also makes an excellent solo as the crux is right off the ground.
Aug 20, 2007
This is a great route, but to me it seems much more difficult than either Bloody Fingers or Thin Slice (two of the area classic 10a cracks). The crux is short, but both times I've lead this is kind of worked me.
|By Nate Adams|
Aug 20, 2007
Wow! This popped up as a featured route and jolted me back 20 years. This was my second (ever) lead, after a bolted 5.7 at Dragons Back in Montana. I'm happy to say I did it clean, but it took an eternity to clip into the rings on slings and rap. I had a serious case of newbie nerves at the anchors, but man, was I psyched!!!!
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Jun 26, 2012
Pretty hard for 5.10a! I actually found a harder 5.10a (White Lightning) but this is easily 5.10b or 5.10c climbing at the bottom. Insecure finger jams lead to a chimney top to the ubiquitous patina jug finish at The City. But maybe the grade should stay for a little traditional butt whipping for those whose egos were easily fluffed on Bloody Fingers or the like ;).
Awesome climbing on an aesthetically appealing pitch.