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a. The Uberfall
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Sudoriferous T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Double Clutch 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Pete Geiser
Page Views: 1,871
Submitted By: monk on Jul 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Taking a look at the horizontal. #4 at my e...

Description 

P1: Start at the Eyebrow crack, climb to a horizontal under the roof and traverse right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof at the notch. Continue to the Eyebrow belay.

P2: Climb straight up towards the triangle block in the roof above. Step left then back right until you are under the roof. Pull the roof just right of the triangle block. Good and very different in feel from the first pitch.

P1 is harder if you're short.

After pulling the crux, many people choose to rap from the obvious tree rather than continue to the Eyebrow belay.


Protection 

Normal gunks rack.



Photos of Double Clutch Slideshow Add Photo
Gail discovers a shorty variation left of the notch
Gail discovers a shorty variation left of the notc...
Comments on Double Clutch Add Comment
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By Goodhue
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great excuse to use a #4 Camalot. Fits perfectly in the notch over the roof. Fun to throw for the horizontal from the edge of the roof with an incredibly safe fall onto your big ol cam.

By monk
Nov 5, 2008

That notch over the roof is a cool feature. I don't remember what I used to protect that move, but I don't have a #4 Camalot and I know I had bomber gear. So if you don't have a giant cam, don't worry about it. This climb protects well with a normal rack.

BTW, I've seen this crux done at least three different ways - including throwing, as you say. The crux is height related, but I'm able to reach it (I'm 5'8").

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 5, 2010

Got spit off over and over again. At 5'2", I had a tough time throwing. I tried heel hooking, sticking my foot in the crack, took many many lead falls.

Just lead it again in summer 2014. I found an easier way to pull the move and did it with no falls. It's all about the feet!

By John Ely
From: DC
Nov 20, 2012

Be sure not to miss the second pitch. A little round about but the overhang is interesting.

By xcrag-corex
Mar 6, 2013

Threw my self at this for a while in fall of 2011.... Cant wait to get back at it. Definitely safe falls on the #4

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 9, 2014

Success!!! I figured out how to make the move. I lead this on Sunday and was pleased as punch to finish the climb. The traverse is a bit pumpy, the "move" is well protected by a number 4. Fun, short novelty climb.

By Rob Buels
Jul 21, 2014

With a 5'4" reach, I had to heel hook to get my shoulder up high enough to go up at the normal spot.