Double Clutch V8-9
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| Type: | TR, Boulder, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | V8-9 [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Submitted By: | jonah on Apr 23, 2003 |
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Mike Burdon sticking the dyno.
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Description On the northwest corner of Beer Barrel rock. Grab the big jug rail, step your feet high, and huck for the broken/slopey jug below the lip. A good edge for your left hand helps pull you over the top. Doing it without a rope seems a little on the burly side.
This seemed like a cool addition to the site, especially after seeing Paul Glover do it ropeless in Front Range Freaks. Anyone know if this has been flashed and by whom? Also, who did the FA?
Protection One nice bolt and a rusty old one with a leeper hanger next to it.
| Comments on Double Clutch |
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By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 24, 2003
| Bob Williams, formerly known in Boulder climbing circles as "The Lunger" did it on a rope for a Boulder climbing video in the 70s or early 80s. I saw it once at a fundraiser for Eldo. The name of the video escapes me now, but someone will know it.
Mike Auldridge and Brian Capps worked it out in 2000 using some ridiculous number of crashpads, like 12 or 18 or something like that. It was in the R & I article on Boulder if you're interested.
As for flashing it, I heard someone came down from the Fort and did exactly that. I wasn't there, but certainly would have like to have seen it. |
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 25, 2003
| On second thought, I think Neal Kaptain (and not BW) did this on video way back when. Not sure he was first, but it was definitely on a rope. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 22, 2003
| Disclaimer: Sorry for the spray you are about to read - this is for a bet.
I did it 2nd try DESROSSIERS!!! Time for burritos and margaritas, sucker!!(Yes, I used a toprope. I am a pussy.) |
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 3, 2004
| FA 1972 by Bob Williams - done both statically (Syncromesh) and dynamically (Dynamesh). B.H. 1989 refers to this old static variation using a "thin edge layaway". B.H. 1995 comments "this layaway has now broken". B.H. 2000 and P.B. 1999 make no mention at all of this route on the Beer Barrel Rock. The "modern" static version uses what was once only a foothold in the middle of the face with the right hand. Thrutch up the arête with the left until you can secure an incut edge. Now grab the bucket that is the hold that is dyno'd to in the dynamic version. Static version is probably V5 - with several extra V grades for scare factor, especially if done without pads or spotters! |
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 3, 2004
| For me, that video footage of Double Clutch in "On the Rocks" was extremely motivating. The first time I came out to Boulder to visit (1984?) I went directly to Flagstaff and tried it on a top rope, and failed miserably. I went out and got some ski poles and leg weights so I could train aerobically just like Tony Yaniro did in the video. I'll never forget the footage of Tony doing Equinox in J-Tree in a windstorm. Epic! |
By JVonD
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2010
| Skyler Weekes dyno of Double Clutch on Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder, Colorado.
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