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Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: TR: Pete Cleveland FFA: Sol Sepsenwol (AKA Mr. Poultry) 1987
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: mr. poultry on Feb 8, 2007
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Sol Sepsenwol, as Mr. Poultry, bouldering the star...

Description 

This is a beautiful, wandering thin face climb between "Black Rib" and the corner, "Man and Superman" first TR'd by Pete Cleveland in the 60's. Double-rope helps. It has two rests, and lots of exciting, sustained climbing between. The protection doesn't show up for the first 25 feet, but there is a good pro from there on. The route starts with an extended RH layback up to some thin finger slots, moves right and up on small footholds to an obvious "ledge" about 10 ft up. It moves back left and across near the corner, where it's possible to drop in a big nut in a crack on "Man and Superman" nearby and rest (11a?R). The route moves straight up, then out right on thin handholds and footholds to a black edge near Black Rib (the 12 crux for me), where a crack takes RP's. Back left to a dyno to the big, RH rough incut (= clutch #1, crux). Traverse left and up the obvious ledges, to gear and rest. Overhanging finish moves up and right with to a wild high lieback, a swing out to a perfect slot in the finish crack which takes RP's, and a careful tippy-toe to the top. I don't know where the second clutch is.


Protection 

1 large wired nut, RPs, #1 cam, double rope. No fixed gear.



Comments on Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly) Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 25, 2007

Jason,

Thanks for giving back to the community.

By Tony Brengosz
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R

Does this start off the ground? If so, yikes. We started up and left near the base of Man and Superman, which avoids the heinously thin start from the ground. Other than that, this is a great route. A good mix of power and technique get you through the crux, then easier climbing up to a great finish bulge and top out slab.