Double Chin 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Norton Smithe and Doug Kerr |
| Submitted By: | Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008 |
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Jen Hopper
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb the crack and corner to the first overhang, step left, make a hard high step, then head up to another overhang (crux) to a ledge with a belay/rap tree. Rappel, or walk off either left to the cliff's end or right via the Uberfall Descent.
Location Ten feet right of Nosedive at a crack below 2 large roofs and a right-facing corner system about 60 feet up.
Protection Standard Gunks rack.
Double Chin
| Start of Double Chin.
| Negotiating the first roof
| Looking down Double Chin from the rappel tree. Two...
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By gblauer From: Wayne, PA Apr 5, 2010
| Interesting climb. THe first roof is easy to step around, the second roof requires some thoughtful moves to the ledge. Not hard, you just have to find your way. |
By JSH Administrator Jun 21, 2010
| I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5! The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun. For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor. |
By tomde01 From: 10510 Jun 11, 2011
| Good climb. The second roof is a bit tricky. Watch out for flakes when placing gear on the second roof. I found myself using a hand jam to get passed the second roof. This route is also tricky to clean if your second doesn't climb it. Oh yes I almost forgot a massive spider lives under the first roof. I almost had a heart attack. |
By Kevin Heckeler From: West Sand Lake, New York Mar 11, 2012 rating: 5.5
| Definitely don't pass this one up! |
By kenr Jun 9, 2012 rating: 5.5
| Agree with the comments above. Since this route is not real popular, I wasn't expecting much ... then it turned out to be a satisfying lead with interesting moves before the crux, and felt well-protected. If you bring along followers who are not strong at 5.5 and not so gung-ho to try a tricky challenge, they might end up unhappy. If you fail to give them good directional protection in the top crux, and they swing out into space if they fail, they might be very unhappy that they followed your choices. |
By joel katon Oct 23, 2012
| wet around the roofs (it rained 2 days before) probably the crux move awkward move which makes it feel harder than a 5.5 |
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