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Double Chin 

5.5

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
FA: Norton Smithe and Doug Kerr
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Description 

Climb the crack and corner to the first overhang, step left, make a hard high step, then head up to another overhang (crux) to a ledge with a belay/rap tree.

Rappel, or walk off either left to the cliff's end or right via the Uberfall Descent.


Location 

Ten feet right of Nosedive at a crack below 2 large roofs and a right-facing corner system about 60 feet up.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.



Photos of Double Chin Slideshow Add Photo
Double Chin

Double Chin

Start of Double Chin.

Start of Double Chin.

Negotiating the first roof

Negotiating the first roof

Looking down Double Chin from the rappel tree. Two roofs are wild fun for 5.5!

Looking down Double Chin from the rappel tree. Two...


Comments on Double Chin Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 5, 2010

Interesting climb. THe first roof is easy to step around, the second roof requires some thoughtful moves to the ledge. Not hard, you just have to find your way.

By JSH
Administrator
Jun 21, 2010

I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!

The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.

For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor.

By tomde01
From: 10510
Jun 11, 2011

Good climb. The second roof is a bit tricky. Watch out for flakes when placing gear on the second roof. I found myself using a hand jam to get passed the second roof. This route is also tricky to clean if your second doesn't climb it. Oh yes I almost forgot a massive spider lives under the first roof. I almost had a heart attack.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.5

Definitely don't pass this one up!

By kenr
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.5

Agree with the comments above. Since this route is not real popular, I wasn't expecting much ... then it turned out to be a satisfying lead with interesting moves before the crux, and felt well-protected.

If you bring along followers who are not strong at 5.5 and not so gung-ho to try a tricky challenge, they might end up unhappy. If you fail to give them good directional protection in the top crux, and they swing out into space if they fail, they might be very unhappy that they followed your choices.

By joel katon
Oct 23, 2012

wet around the roofs (it rained 2 days before) probably the crux move awkward move which makes it feel harder than a 5.5