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On the right edge of the large low overhang that has Tomcat Tracer, but left of Atomic Slap project. Scamper up to get under the right side of the overhang, clip bolt on right then reach out right and clip again (might be wise to put a long runner on the first bolt), rest, pull over the jut, take a rest, then, following the vein, bravely search out the few crystals that aren't facing completely the wrong way . Take another rest, then up to the left, sling horn above. This climb was extra pumpy. Yeah! Thanks, Curt.
8 quickdraws, long runner for 1st bolt, shoulder sling for horn near top, huge 2-bolt chain anchor
Curt Love checking out the bulge on Double Chin. (...
Curt Love on Double Chin. (photo by Todd)
Finding the 7th crux on Double Chin (or is it one ...
|By CURT LOVE|
Mar 12, 2004
"Double Chin"Man, I waited to long to do this route. I think this is one of the best 5.11 sport pitches I have done at the smore. If you are up to it, get on this thing, it is great climbing on good holds, with well placed bolts, and one hell of a good pump to deal with. There is not really one bad hold on the route most of them in fact are good incuts or underclings that are fun to move off and too! Pull the bulge and fight the pump there are great "milky" stances all over this route. If you are a steep rock snob you should have no worries about falling off, this route is plenty steep. For a good time climb this thing.PS the horn you sling is bomber and the climbing above it is easy but if your were to pump off the horn would be nice to have slung!!
|By Mike Cronin|
Mar 13, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
CurtI agree with your comments on Double Chin. I did it in the mid 90's and thought it was great. A little wild pulling out the roof but then it was great climbing after that. Last fall when I repaired Oh Sherrie I put a new rap station on the top of Double Chin. Next time you are at RM try the new top varitation to Oh Sherrie. The original route went into the wide crack after the 5th bolt. Now you can clip bolts up the 5.10 face above to a new set of anchors. Captain Hook has new bolts and hangers. All were suspect but the last one before the run out was the worst. Some people wanted bolts added but RM needs a few routes that have the old school feel. Two new routes are up at the Thunderhead in the Canyon as of 5-11-04. One 5 bolt that probably goes 5.9 and a 12 bolt one that goes at least 5.11 maybe harder. Have not climbed them yet but feel free to get on them. They are left of Lee's route.