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The Optimator
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Double Bock 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Carson, 1995
Page Views: 940
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 21, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Double Bock - Short but stout crux. The left crack...

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Description 

The crux of Double Bock is short but fierce. Gently overhanging .5 fingers to .75 ringlocks (Camalots) is what you can expect at the crux. But the climbing eases up to 5.9 hands after that making this a reasonable 5.12 for the Creek. If it wasn't for the soft and slightly loose rock at the top of the route this would be a four star classic for sure.

The new guide book topo (2009) shows climbing a crack to the left of the main crack and then traversing into the main crack. This seems like an error to me since the left crack is tips and it is relatively easy to get to the main crack from the top of the slab.


Location 

This route is located on the far right side of the wall just left of "Huffe-Wiesse". Follow the trail right about 100m past the "Optimator" until you get to a grassy section. In the Grassy area the trail makes a 180 degree u-turn back left and up onto a ledge. Follow the ledge for about 50m or so and look for a splitter finger crack up above an easy slab/corner.


Protection 

.4 to 2 Camalots.



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By Michael Pang
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Fun route. Maybe 15-20 feet of hard climbing, then the rest is easy. The traverse protects with a .3 Camalot. The top is blocky and weird. Save a #1 or a .75 Camalot to protect the exit move to the anchor.

Well worth the long walk to the far side of Optimator Wall.

By JamesLucas
Apr 17, 2012

Instead of bringing 2 .5 camalots, just turn into an Asian Ninja doctor named Michael Pang- you're way more likely to send.

By Michael Pang
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b

Something like that.