Doub-Griffith 

I think this is one of the best route I have done in the canyon. I like it almost as much as The Naked Edge. I don't think it gets done nearly as much. Although it has been nearly five years since I have done the route I don't remember the first pitch being quite as hard as 11c. Steve is right on with the gear though, a couple of TCUs will give you all the malcomb you need on the finger crack first pitch.The last pitch is completely spectacular.

Not as long, but more consistently difficult than the Edge. Pound for pound, it is every bit as good. No crowds on this thing!!

I heard a rumor that if a climber fell in a particular spot on the 1st pitch that there was rope-cut potential over a sharp edge. Anyone care to confirm?

If you are doing the "Dubious Graffiti" middle pitch from top of pitch 1 Superslab, the bolt is clipped around the sharp arete on the left, and you climb on the right. If you fall the rope could get cut, but you'd have to be really unlucky.

Instead of going right after the crux on Pitch 1, a nice alternative is to go slightly left, clip a bolt above the roof, pull the roof (maybe 11a) and belay on the small ledge just above. You also don't have to worry so much about the rope cutting over the arete on the next pitch if you go this way. It also makes for a more independant line.Great Route!

I agree with Jason: the left option through the roof after the 1st pitch crux is more in keeping with the character of the climb (i.e. avoiding the belay at the top of Super Slab pitch 1). Better yet, instead of setting a belay after pulling the roof, continue up past the bolt protecting the next 5.11 section on the arete. Once past this section conitnue up to a good belay ledge, which is actually the top of pitch 2 of Super Slab. There may be a bit of rope drag if you started the climb from the base of Super Slab... this can be remedied by moving the starting belay to the flat spot directly below the first pitch of D-G.

Incredible climb! Best to warm up by climbing Suparete to the top of the lower ramp.

The third pitch is my favorite Eldo pitch of all time.

There's a pretty good beta photo under Mickey Mouse Nailup that shows the upper 2 pitches Doub Griffith/Dubious Graffiti very clearly--it more or less falls the sun/shadow line on the right side of the photo.

If, after the short first pitch, your intent is to climb Dubious Graffiti, it is best to forego the belay on the small ledge above the roof and continue to the good ledge system at the base of the final pitch. The extended pitch is about 150' of fabulous climbing with many 11 crux sections.

IMHO, the best route in Eldo! Spectacular position and exposure, and plenty of variety make this one wild ride. Although there is plenty of spice throughout, the harder portions are all well protected and I think the "s" would pertain to only 5.9 or perhaps up to 10b sections. If you can climb 11b or c, I don't think the serious rating would be a problem. Also, unless you are way honed, a good solid warm up is highly recommended since the first pitch may present a flash pump challenge otherwise. Very nice route description and I strongly concur with the Psycho Pigeon continuation!

At the 3rd bolt on the final pitch, you can follow a natural weakness about 3ft to the right of the bolt line. The smallest ball nuts and a green Alien will protect this section. You can then traverse back to the 4th bolt (which is at your feet) and continue with the regular line. It would difficult to clip the 4th bolt, so place gear instead.

I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way.

No question about it. This is one of the best climbs around. Spectacular from start to finish! The last pitch is truly amazing. Great movement and position with just enough spice to get your pulse racing. I could climb this route everyday for a month and never get bored. Awesome day Guy!

For what it's worth, Eric Doub is still in the Boulder area. His north Boulder home is "net-zero" energy and rated the most energy efficient home in the state of Colorado.

As a matter of fact, we passed Eric on the way out yesterday after climbing DG. Cool

Just FYI; There is a 5.10'ish rising traverse that starts from the first bolt on the third pitch and joins Super Slab as it turns the roof.

Does anybody know if this loose flake was involved in the recent accident? I believe it was this route...

www.thedenverchannel.com/news/16047413/detail.html
www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1885425

wcurudy - it most definitely is.
Really unfortunate, as it is a cool route.

Great route, with a bunch of cool possibilities for fun link-ups. We did Bob's "Astroman of Eldo" link-up of Superarete->DG->Mellow Yellow. 5 consecutive pitches of quality 5.11!
I do agree with one of the above comments about the "3rd" pitch (it's easy to combine p1&2 and do the whole route in 2 pitches). On the last pitch, if one follows the line of least resistance at the 3rd bolt, it will take you up and right all the way to Super slab. I went this way, placing 2 small cams, and ended up about even with the 4th bolt and unable to traverse back "on-route". I ended up traversing back a bit higher and rejoining DG at its 5th bolt. I think this variation avoids the 11c crux of the pitch, making it more like 11a/b.
So I guess this means that the crux of DG is a bit contrived, but it looked good so I'll have to try to go the true way next time.
-Scott

Scott, nice job and what a great day to be up there. Yall' did "Bob's Astroman of Eldo", did you guys really think the Mellow Yellow part of the link up was still 5.11 tho? That would be proud!

Followed Bob up the upper 2 pitches of the Doub yesterday while wind was picking up with the storm blowing in. It was spectacular! Mental note: thin, balancy climbing on that arete with 20 mph wind and worse gusts is heady. Props to Bob for leading this thing flawlessly in some adverse conditions!

On another note, we did the Ruper start to Roll Over Rover and you can traverse hard left and work your way back to the arete and finish up the last two pitches of the Doub... but you will be crossing straight over Grand Giraffe and Art's Spar, so maybe not the best linkup for a weekend day.

What a route!

But that ain't the DG. Let's rope up up.

Edit too add, BURLY!

AMAZING...Go do it! I also will say the Dubious Graffiti is the way to go. You can combine the pitches into one awesome pitch with quite a bit of 5.11. Had a bit of rope to spare with a 60m. Don't need to much of a rack. RPs and TCUs.

There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 1 and 2 on the third pitch. Not particularly hard (5.9ish) but very scary. I vote for an R rating since a fall trying to clip the second bolt would be ugly.