Dottyback Deamo Daydream
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BETA PHOTO: Topo of the route.
1. Up and right to a shallow slot 15 feet up (5.10). Continue straight up, then slightly left through a finger crack in a small roof. Face climb left of the blocky crack above to a ledge below the higher mud band. Traverse 15 feet right, then up through another bulging finger crack. Belay on a cramped ledge (5.10b, 60 feet).
2. Up the short chimney above, past stacked blocks, to a slabby ledge (you'll be below another chimney). Traverse thirty feet left on the wild hanging slab to gain the base of the nice crack. Up ten feet and belay on a ledge (5.9, 60 feet).
3. Romp up the crack. Belay on a ledge on the right (5.9, 30 feet).
4. Angle up and left, straight up over a small bulge, then left again to gain the east arete and the summit (5.8, 40 feet).
Start on the north side, ten feet right of the high spot in the talus. After a steep muddy start the route accesses the prominent clean crack in the upper middle of the face.
Descent: There is no fixed gear on the climb. To descend, use two ropes tied together and draped over the top, one hanging down each face. We used a 70m on the longer south face and a 60m, and these reached OK. Take care setting this up. It may be better to go one person at a time rather than both at once, to help communication. Once the party is down, the ropes can be pulled.
Many wires, especially medium/large. 2-3 sets Aliens, 2-3 sets Friends/Camalots up to 4-inch. QDs, runners. Double ropes.
RalphE on summit, FA, 1999. The J-Rat shirt kinda ...
Ralph E Burns, near the top of pitch 1
The rappel ropes, draped over the summit. Summit i...