Dos Hermanos 

The Crux is lower for small-fingered people- but the move up through the roof can be hard too.
For a small man-hand size, you'll find it's just plain too small to get a fist in. The hand will go in sideways, but will be so bent that the fingers can't flex. The hand can go in the "flat" way- try folding your thumb as if to touch the base of the pinkey finger with the tip. This gave me just enough purchase to hang on, although I'd already hung on the route anyway.

Just to set the record straight, this route is yet another creation by the Man, the Myth, the Legend... Steve Hong.

I would have to disagree with the comment that the last move is the crux of the climb. Although a little difficult, you get a great rest before the final bulge. I think the crux is about half way up in the finger section.

For me, the last roof is undoubtedly the crux. I have skinny hands, so the jams out the roof at the end are just too big. I've climbed the lower crux clean a couple of times, but always fail to pull the last roof.

I want, I want. Such an aesthetic line!

By far my favorite route in Donnelley. If you want a change from the long splitters or corners, this great route offers a whole lot of diverse climbing in 90 feet. There are new anchors below the roof, but that takes away part of the fun.

The anchors (lower and upper) got replaced last year. Thanks to Climbing Magazine's ARI. Just a note for you desert rats that still like drilled angles - I funked both the top angles with a light yank on the funkness. These were not the first ones I cleaned that way. I have NEVER been able to clean an expansion bolt this easily.

Chris Kalous

I thought this was a Ruckman Bros route? hence the name Dos hermanos. Correct if wrong. Great route.

Steve Hong did the FA of this route with his brother.

I'm a bit confussed by the two sets of anchors. Why would anyone place a set of anchors just before the crux, or in this case, one of the crux's when an anchor already exist above? Shoud we place anchors before the crux on every climb? Perhaps we should remove the first set of anchors. Anyone know the history here?

I agree Greg, pretty silly to have a set of anchors before the roof. When I first climbed this route in 2002 I think there was only one bolt before the roof now there is a full blown anchor. Sorry but I have no idea why any bolts were placed below the roof there is bomber gear.

I believe I recall 2 sets present in 1995.

I agree w/ tony. I recall that there were two anchors back in the mid 90s. I replaced them both (see above comment) because some people would use the bottom one whether I did or not, the webbing was ugly, and I generally think chopping bolts is more about ego than conservation. In a place like Donnelly, where so many people cut their teeth, and there is very little hard climbing, it doesn't seem like that big of a deal. If you have small hands, I imagine that the top could ruin your day pretty quickly. If you do decide to pull that low anchor, please consider using the chains to replace another anchor in the creek, as they were donated expressly for that purpose.

Those upper bolts should be able to be tightened since they are Rawls.

I loved this climb! Interesting, fun, challenging, varied--maybe the best climb I've done in Indian Creek. I have bigger hands; the roof was very mellow (#3 camalots) with great feet, but the finger section down low was hard. Being able to fire in .5 camalots off a pumpy stance seems pretty key.

Upper anchor bolts were very loose as of 4/08.

Best route at Donnelly. hard for me to hang a grade on this... Bloom guide calls it .11+ which feels right to me. Crux for me was not placing an extraneous #3 high which got in my way. Placed 2 #3s from the stance at the roof and fired next go.

Bolts tightened on 1/30/09. Good as new. The hangers get rotated when you clean or toprope with a directional. I believe this is why they loosened up. Begs the question, why two years of comments about loose bolts, but no wrenching?

Absolutely Fantastic!!! Bloom's guidebook calls it a 5.11+.

Lowered a 40lb block off the route, otherwise great, how many other routes in the creek make use of multiple heel hooks

Recommend 1x blue TCU, 1x yellow TCU, 5x #0.5 camalots, 2x #0.75 - #3 camalots.

11+ for sure . . . a stellar route

The anchors could use some help

Add a wrench to the rack for this one. The bolts need to be tightened again. Will try to get up there in the next week or two.

The best climb at Donnelly, one of the best line in the whole creek. Just fantastic.

My fingers seemed to fit well in the crack