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Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks)

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Main Wall 
Quarry Area, The 
Slabs, The 

Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks) 


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Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: mnatti on Apr 24, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: Main Wall of Dorset St. Crag.

Description 

This is a small but fun little strip of quarried granite near Annisquam. It offers a little bit of everything, from fun slabs, nice cracks, and even a nasty overhang with next to no holds. There are a few boulderable sections, but it is more a rope area in my opinion. Don't expect a long day here... but if you have a group of mixed ability, it is great to kill a few hours at.


Getting There 

Take Route 128 to the first rotary in Gloucester. Drive 3/4 around the loop and take Route 127 (Washington St) toward Lanesville and Annisquam. Just before the Annisquam Church (on the left) is Dorset St. (on the right). There is room for 3 or 4 cars if you pull over on Washington St., just before Dorset St. Another parking option is to drive up Bennett St. and park at the top of the first hill, just before a sharp bend in the road. This option gets you to the top of the cliff system, which is a short walk in to the left of the road.


Climbing Season


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks):
Slippery When Wet   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Wall
Deception   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Wall
Trundled   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Quarry Area
Seams Thin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Main Wall
Crimps   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Wall
The Corner   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   The Quarry Area
Browse More Classics in Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks)

Featured Route For Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks)
The Green Monster with some baby ice.

Green Monster WI3  MA : Cape Ann : ... : Main Wall
This is the green slab/ gully in the middle of the main wall. It is really only worth doing as a bolted ice climb (uses Slippery When Wet's bolts) in the winter. The bottom is often very thin but then goes into nice solid ice about a third of the way up....[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Comments on Dorset St. Crag (Langsford Pond in Boston Rocks) Add Comment
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By mnatti
Dec 19, 2011

This crag is lonely. It wants to be loved. Come play and keep the green away!

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Feb 10, 2012

This is a beautiful crag with awesome access just feet from you car. Great lines on the beauty Cape Ann granite!

By jim.dangle
Mar 12, 2012

This crag is small but nice. Comparable to the lesser Redrock areas (Oz, Down under, etc) though, maybe the main face is a bit higher. Definitely worth a visit if you are in the area. Though not too near any houses, it's pretty near two roads, so it's worth keeping a low profile.

Jim

By Chris McNeil
From: Essex, MA
Oct 22, 2012

This is one of my favorite spot in the area for lead. The lines arent to long, but they are fun, interesting, and well protected, with a variety of grades from easy to intensely stiff.