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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) 
Doris Gets Her Oats 
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Doris Gets Her Oats 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Stuberg and Mike Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 361
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Apr 20, 2011
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Starting out with the wide crack visible above.
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  • Description 

    This is a fun route with good moves. A #6 can be bumped up all the way through the fist half with other protection available, but none are as trustworthy as a giant cam. After the wide crack (no off-width moves required), there is a tricky move leaving a ledge and launching onto some suspect flakes. The rest of this crack seemed dirty and loose and had some scary blocks above, so I decided to top out on the right crack instead (recommended). The right crack is the top of Heddie La Rue and is really fun. Although not the crux of that route, this upper crack may be the crux of this route. Solid and steep rock with good protection and pretty big moves more than make up for the lichen.


    Location 

    This is all the way at the upper end of Redgarden Wall and just left of Heddie La Rue where the walk off trail hits the ground. This is the obvious wide crack you may have noticed on your walk down from Rewritten. After belaying at the tree on top, scramble up around the left side (big loose blocks) and duck through a notch to the north to join the descent trail.


    Protection 

    Standard rack and some big gear. One #6 is helpful. There is a big tree on the top to belay from and a pretty easy walk off. An extra #3 is nice, because there are lots of #3 placements on the first half, but it is a good idea to have one near the top since there isn't much else. If you only have one, try to save it for the top out.



    Photos of Doris Gets Her Oats Slideshow Add Photo
    Looking down @ the top half.
    Looking down @ the top half.
    Stemming avoids some of the wide down low.
    Stemming avoids some of the wide down low.
    Doris Gets Her Oats on the left and Heddi La Rue on the right.
    BETA PHOTO: Doris Gets Her Oats on the left and Heddi La Rue o...
    In the thin crack near the top.  This is the end of Heddie La Rue which is better than the finish to the left on Doris.
    In the thin crack near the top. This is the end o...
    One of the cool/crux moves involves a super high step to that left hand hold....
    One of the cool/crux moves involves a super high s...
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