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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Routes Sorted
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Abracadabra TR 
Burning Chrome T 
Cinders And Saints T 
Color of Pomegranates, The T 
Controlled Burn  T 
Culp-Raubach Finish T 
Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Direct Variation to Zot Face T 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 
Doris Gets Her Oats T 
Dream Weaver T 
Everybody Route, The T 
Fanning the Flame T 
For Whom the Bell Tolls T 
Grand Course, The T 
Grandmother's Challenge T 
Great Zot Variation A., The T 
Great Zot, The T 
Green Hornet, The T,S 
Green Slab Direct T 
Green Slab-Original Route T 
Green Sleeves T 
Green Spur, The T 
Heddie La Rue T 
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Lost in Space T 
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Paris Girl S 
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Please Close Lid T 
Rabbits From Hats T 
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Rebuffat's Arete T 
Rewritten T 
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Silver Raven T 
Spur of the Moment T 
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Swanson Arete T 
Tower Corner Exit T 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 
Waiting Room T 
Warm and Fuzzy T 
West Chimney T 
Zot Face, The T 

Doris Gets Her Oats 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Stuberg and Mike Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 755
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Apr 20, 2011

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One of the cool/crux moves involves a super high s...

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  • Description 

    This is a fun route with good moves. A #6 can be bumped up all the way through the fist half with other protection available, but none are as trustworthy as a giant cam. After the wide crack (no off-width moves required), there is a tricky move leaving a ledge and launching onto some suspect flakes. The rest of this crack seemed dirty and loose and had some scary blocks above, so I decided to top out on the right crack instead (recommended). The right crack is the top of Heddie La Rue and is really fun. Although not the crux of that route, this upper crack may be the crux of this route. Solid and steep rock with good protection and pretty big moves more than make up for the lichen.


    This is all the way at the upper end of Redgarden Wall and just left of Heddie La Rue where the walk off trail hits the ground. This is the obvious wide crack you may have noticed on your walk down from Rewritten. After belaying at the tree on top, scramble up around the left side (big loose blocks) and duck through a notch to the north to join the descent trail.


    Standard rack and some big gear. One #6 is helpful. There is a big tree on the top to belay from and a pretty easy walk off. An extra #3 is nice, because there are lots of #3 placements on the first half, but it is a good idea to have one near the top since there isn't much else. If you only have one, try to save it for the top out.

    Photos of Doris Gets Her Oats Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down @ the top half.
    Looking down @ the top half.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Doris Gets Her Oats on the left and Heddi La Rue o...
    BETA PHOTO: Doris Gets Her Oats on the left and Heddi La Rue o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: In the thin crack near the top.  This is the end o...
    In the thin crack near the top. This is the end o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming avoids some of the wide down low.
    Stemming avoids some of the wide down low.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting out with the wide crack visible above.
    Starting out with the wide crack visible above.

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