Doris Gets Her Oats
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One of the cool/crux moves involves a super high s...
This is a fun route with good moves. A #6 can be bumped up all the way through the fist half with other protection available, but none are as trustworthy as a giant cam. After the wide crack (no off-width moves required), there is a tricky move leaving a ledge and launching onto some suspect flakes. The rest of this crack seemed dirty and loose and had some scary blocks above, so I decided to top out on the right crack instead (recommended). The right crack is the top of Heddie La Rue
and is really fun. Although not the crux of that route, this upper crack may be the crux of this route. Solid and steep rock with good protection and pretty big moves more than make up for the lichen.
This is all the way at the upper end of Redgarden Wall and just left of Heddie La Rue
where the walk off trail hits the ground. This is the obvious wide crack you may have noticed on your walk down from Rewritten
. After belaying at the tree on top, scramble up around the left side (big loose blocks) and duck through a notch to the north to join the descent trail.
Standard rack and some big gear. One #6 is helpful. There is a big tree on the top to belay from and a pretty easy walk off. An extra #3 is nice, because there are lots of #3 placements on the first half, but it is a good idea to have one near the top since there isn't much else. If you only have one, try to save it for the top out.
Looking down @ the top half.
BETA PHOTO: Doris Gets Her Oats on the left and Heddi La Rue o...
In the thin crack near the top. This is the end o...
Stemming avoids some of the wide down low.
Starting out with the wide crack visible above.