|Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave)
|Closed Permanently for Sensitive Archaeological Resources MORE INFO >>>|
Thuggy moves right off the ground lead past 3 bolts to a shelf and some underclings. Rest up here as much as possible. Continue past a couple more bolts on smaller holds to a difficult move getting established in a pair of pockets and a big throw out of them to a jug. Move up the series of jugs past another bolt. Make a long reach out left from the highest jug to clip, call it good for "Short on Dope" 5.12+, or bust the V6 boulder problem moving out left to another jug and clip, then up on flat holds to an undercling and the last bolt/anchor. Recommend not clipping this and instead lowering off the previous bolt as it will be hard on your rope.
There are 2 main cave features and this route starts on the prow that sticks out between them off of a couple of pretty big stacked blocks. The route starts out by heading out and right for a few bolts then more straight out and finally to the left at the end.
Bolts with fixed chain draws. Color coded with green tape. Stick clip recommended for first clip.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
This climb is Dope! If not for the sharp holds and wandering line this would be 4 stars to me. The rock is surprisingly good for about 90% of the route. Basically a series of boulder problems a V5 start leads to a good rest, to a V4 thru the pocket section to a final V5 core intensive move to the finish.
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
while tightening the 4th and 5th nuts on Dope that like to loosen themselves, we discovered that the entire bolts are loose and can be moved up and down.