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East Wall Outer (Creature Feature Area)
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Creature Feature S 
Doomed T 
Doomsday S 
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Hellion of Troy T 
Hellraiser S 
Wayward Westerners TR 

Doomsday 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Warren Hughes & Mike Van Volkem, October 1991
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: john durr on Oct 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Moving up to the last bolt on Doomsday (5.9), Josh...

Description 

Located at Hall of Horrors East Wall - Den of Doom, left (west) of Rocky Horror Picture Show and Creature Feature on a short southeast facing brown buttress and face. Face climb up and left on this steep face with nice holds.

Location 

Right side of the obvious patina face 200' left of Creature Feature.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 22, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Mostly fun climbing on plates with the crux at the second bolt as you negotiate thin face moves getting stood up onto better holds. One star out of five.

The bolts on this have been replaced and are 3/8".
By TofuTodd
From: Salt Lake
Feb 28, 2012

The new miramontes book indicates this route has a bolt anchor and is 5.9. I scoped this route on 2/26/12 and there was new bolts but no anchor. The old bolts were not pulled and someone bailed on a quick link at the last bolt so it looks as if there is an anchor without chains or rings. FYI.
By Randy
Mar 1, 2012

Never have been bolt anchors on this route. Big gear is helpful to set up an anchor.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 1, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There was a bolted anchor on top of this two years ago.
By Megin Olson
From: Irvine, California
Jan 8, 2015

There are 2 bolts w/ rap rings on top. I tightened both bolts before rapelling since they were loose. I couldn't tighten one of the bolts enough due to the orientation of surrounding rock and hanger. One fixe and one petzl hanger. The route itself has newer bolts right next to older bolts and rusty hangers.
By Greg Opland
Administrator
Jan 9, 2015

You have to love the new bolt replacement paradigm exhibited on this route...don't do any real work to do a careful, low-impact job, just slam new bolts in next to the old ones and leave a big mess behind. Disgusting.
By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Jan 26, 2015

yeah, you could clip both new and old bolts, equalize at each stance!

I've never taken out a buttonhead before - ez, or not?
By Greg Opland
Administrator
Jan 27, 2015

They're pretty beefy buttonheads, but as a bolt type, buttonheads should be some of the easier ones to get back out... maybe. :-)

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 27, 2015

Those look like the 5/16ths ones (i.e., bigger). I found those very difficult to pull, and have heard similar from others. I've only removed 4 total though, and I had a tuning fork. I remember thinking a 2nd tuning fork would have saved me a lot of time and effort.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 27, 2015

That old one looks bomber. Maybe take out the new one and patch that hole. Yeah.... that's the ticket!
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