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Rough Neck Wall
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Donuts and Nicotine T 

Donuts and Nicotine 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: L. Stern & D. Montgomery, 5/18/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Monty on May 20, 2013

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Lisa on the crux of P1 during the FA.
Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an adventurous route that follows the most obvious, diagonal splitter on the wall.

P1. (10+, 110 feet) Start on the right side of a pillar, and work your way up and slightly right to a splitter hand crack in a corner. At the first roof, stay left (though a sick looking variation would go right), and encounter the strange crux followed by another, shorter roof above. Belay above the second roof.

P2, (9, 165 feet) This is an airy pitch that begins by climbing the crack above the belay until reaching a small, half dead tree. Place good gear and traverse left around the corner (spicy). Carefully pull around another roof and continue following the arete and various crack systems. Towards the top of the wall, angle right and belay at a bush ledge where it is possible to scramble the remaining way.

Descent: From the top, rap 85 feet off the back side of the Rough Neck Wall via an obvious large tree and descend a scree field until it is possible to loop right to your packs.


Location 

This is in the middle of the Rough Neck Wall.


Protection 

Standard rack. Triples in #1s and #2s can be helpful on P1.



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