Donut Hole 

Sure 'bout that 10+ rating? In the book it goes as 11a. If'n it is a ten, it's a hard one at that. One of my all time favorite Castlewood routes. Decided to give it a shot one day after passing it up on every previous visit due to its intimidating looks with the roof and all. Great moves. Kind of a pain to top rope; lots of rope drag. Definitely worth the effort!

The description of this says to traverse right to Hot Fudge, but I traversed left to get to Hot Fudge as it is the undercling/corner to the left in the picture (and real life). This is a good route. It can only be protected from top roping. One or two tricky moves around the donut. It is a little crimpy, so a good warm up is in order. Warmup on Hot Fudge (5.8 to the left) or Peaches and Scream(5.6 to the right).

Just a note: we went on Wednesday in the middle of the day and encountered about 12-15 people at the Grovery Store Walls. Kind of crowded for a Wednesday. I guess they like hooky from work/school too.

This could have been rated lower because there are only 2-3 5.11 moves. But those moves are 5.11.

I would tend to agree with you two about the .11a rating. At the time, I had not finished this route and could only speculate about the rest. I was also going off of friend's wisdom. Definitely a fun route, though. The reach coming off of the overhang is pretty stout. I am vertically challenged (we don't say short) and I had a tough time pulling this move. From here, it only gets tougher.

Ken, I agree with you about the stiff 5.10 rating, but I don't think that we did the same line. Donut Hole goes out the roof formed by the Hot Fudge undercling traverse towards the enormous hole in the middle of the face there, not the small one to the right of Hot Fudge. After gaining the enormous hueco, one definitely traverses right back to the finish of Hot Fudge (or creates a new, more difficult direct finish?).

Agreed, tougher direct finish. Haven't linked it all yet, but worked the moves. Crimpy, but definitely do-able. Try it out.

I have to agree with ROC that this is a most difficult 10, most likely an 11a. It does get crimpy, and it is easy - too easy - to get pumped early. Linking up as many of the first 10-15 moves as you can, being efficient with your energy, you can do this with out an extended rest (if you can milk a rest at the knee-bar just below the upper crux, you'll be in good shape). Happy climbing!