|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Tom Cecil and Matt McGovern|
|Submitted By:||Andy Weinmann on Oct 9, 2012|
|Comments on Don't Think Twice||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Dan Mathews
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is a fun face climb with lots of incut holds. The bolt spacing keeps your attention in places.
Definitely bring a #2 camalot (bomber placement) for protecting the last few moves before the belay. Otherwise you are probably 20' above a bolt when you pull the little roof/left facing corner, which seemed to be the hardest moves of the climb.
I didn't see any good options for supplementing the bolts, except for the camalot described above, so I didn't place any. Some of the bolts are very close together, and others are not.
Thanks to Andy for adding this route and the other beta on SE corner routes. I wish I looked at MP before going out yesterday as it is a little confusing figuring out what all the bolted lines are.
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|A great 2 pitch unknown (not in current book) sport (mixed 1 cam) warm up route to get to Lower Broadway ledge. First pitch 5.7 run it all the way past first hanging bolt anchors to Kauffman ledge where there is a 2 bolt belay and nice ledge. The second pitch is 5.8, 3 bolts and a small cam if you don't want to run it out to the first bolt. The 5.8 move(s) is definitely under the flake and your well protected there after clipping the bolt.|