Don't Think Twice 5.9
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Herb Laegar, Eve Laegar, Patrick Paul, Rich Smith, 11/82. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Aug 9, 2007 |
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Tom Donnelly under the roof of Don't Think Twice
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Description This is the obvious corner capped by a roof.
Protection Standard Gear.
BETA PHOTO: 'Don't Think Twice". Photo by Blitzo.
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| Comments on Don't Think Twice |
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By Mark L Apr 30, 2007
| Did this on TR and it is dirty. Interesting move around the overhang but dirty/chossy and wouldnt be a confident lead. The top is face and you can run it out on probably 5.9 face or go right around the side and get a hand crack. |
By Ryan Kelly From: work. Oct 8, 2007
| I think this is an overlooked climb. Still a bit of roughness at the start, but would clean up nicely with more ascents. Pulling across the roof is good fun, goes easier than it looks. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Oct 23, 2010
| Clean up some? The route is nearly 30 years old! Maybe on the 1/2 century mark it will lose the choss factor? Not that I've done it but that last comment was too hysterical to not reply to. |
By Donno From: Newport Beach Nov 15, 2010
| I just did it and it wasn't chossy at all. Good pro - fun route. |
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Dec 6, 2012 rating: 5.9
| No idea what Mark L is talking about up there. It is not dirty or chossy, and there is no face at the top. Anyway... This turned out to be a really good route. Interesting moves, bomber pro, and good rock. It is like a cross between SuperRoof and MooseDog Tower. Climb the approach crack and lob in some med cams or a giant stopper or two. Get up under the roof and sink the bomber pro (2.5" cam) and sus out the roof moves. Get established in the roof and plant a 4" cam into the roof. Move right onto the face and after a couple of easy moves you are at a belay spot up and left of the roof crack. Belay takes stuff in the 2" to 3" range and don't let your rope get stuck in the roof crack. Descend over the top and down to climbers left via an easy scramble. Follow the worn rock. I'd go 2.5 stars on this one. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Dec 6, 2012
| Clean fun is what this route is. Quite possibly the best route on the wall. When watching Russ plug his big meats into that the crack above it occurred to me, it may be too wide for me; he sunk #4 Camalot in the thing after all. To my pleasant surprise there was no need for fancy footwork or struggle at the top, turns out the crack chokes down making a perfect cupped hand placement even for the ladies. I love hidden Josh gems.............. |
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