Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chick Floater 
Chick Power 
Cupcake 
Don't Tell Mom 
Floater aka Center Route 
Heinous Gayness 
Left El Jeffe 
Pungase 
Smoker's Paradise Project 
Southeast Arete 
Trail Route 
Unsorted Routes:

Don't Tell Mom 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ric Gieman
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: D Argyle on Jan 31, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Don't Tell Mom.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Start on the arete on the northeast side of the main boulder, and climb up the left side of the west face. A fun, little, dynamic move will get you to a nice pocket. This climb has been bouldered/solo'ed, but most would find it prudent to set up a TR using the anchor bolts up top.


Location 

Start on the arete on the northeast side of the main boulder and climb up the left side of the west face.


Protection 

You can boulder/solo this or toprope it. There are anchor bolts up top.



Photos of Don't Tell Mom Slideshow Add Photo
Mr. Bob Robinson.
Mr. Bob Robinson.
Kathryn Adamson rocking it!!
Kathryn Adamson rocking it!!
Comments on Don't Tell Mom Add Comment
Show which comments
By willo schubarth
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 20, 2008

FA: Ric Gieman.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 20, 2008

Isn't this the same route as "Trail Route." This post contains the correct name and grade, but I was just wondering if there was one sport route at Ute that I was unaware of.

By Cody Cook
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 22, 2008

No. Trail Route follows the bolts up the arete that faces the road (only bolts on the rock). Don't Tell Mom is a high-ball boulder problem that starts a few feet to the right of Trail Route and climbs the face up to the obvious hueco, which requires a dyno about 15-20 feet off the deck. The toprope anchors mentioned in this post are the same anchors used at the top of Trail Route. If you choose to high-ball it, get ready for a long ride down if you don't stick the dyno.

By tradcragrat
Nov 2, 2008

I bouldered/soloed this after inspecting it once on toprope. I think it's solid 5.11. A good (and heady) route that probably deserves more toprope traffic than it gets. The crux comes at about 25 feet, give or take.

By D Argyle
From: Englewood, CO
Sep 17, 2009

Dan Russell had some cool video footage of Jeff Russell on this climb on the web somewhere. Whatever happened to those Russell boys?

By mlloyd
From: denver
Feb 24, 2013

By Alex Hesler
Oct 1, 2013

One of the anchors on top of the main boulder moves. Check it out, I wouldn't trust it. Might just need some tightening with a wrench....