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Don't Take Yer Guns to Town 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jared Hancock, Rob Copeland - 2004
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 23, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Description 

The guidebook calls this a "one-move wonder," but if you don't have some gas left to get to the anchors after the roof, your next move will be straight down.

Starting at a short dihedral, climb up and right to easy ground that leads up to a roof. Clip the bolt on the lip, then hand-traverse right before making a reachy move to pull the roof (crux). Continue straight up past the last bolt to anchors that are invisible until you're almost on top of them.


Location 

Starts about 10' right of A-Beano.


Protection 

Five bolts, bolted anchors.



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By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Mar 19, 2012

No doubt that pulling the roof is the crux. I couldn't fire the big reach to the jug, so I was trying to bump to it off various crimps with a heel hook. 100% agree that even once you do pull the roof, the climb is not over. It didn't seem particularly well traveled to me, because there wasn't much chalk above the roof, and all the holds were super sharp. I was wandering around up there before I finally saw the anchors. Cleaning this route can be a bit of a pain too. With all that being said, I still recommend giving this one a go.