A spicy line ascending the river-facing prow that is the lesser twin of Boveng's Overhang (the river-facing prow of the B.O. Buttress proper). It climbs similar to Boveng's, but the pro is even worse...
Pull a small bulge on chunky quartz and proceed up to the obvious roof; a thin horizontal crack under the roof affords the first real pro, and the best pieces on the route). Bypass the roof on flared seams to the left (cruxy), then cut back onto the prow itself and follow this on good slopers and edges to the top of the prow, then ride the narrow crest of the prow to a final short step (mid 5th class and no pro) and the true top-out and a good gear anchor (#.4-#2 BD camalots).
This was done as a headpoint...there are only a few pieces of pro to be had and they aren't very confidence inspiring...be careful! The rock and climbing are pretty good, but you don't want to fall.
The obvious river-facing prow 10' left of the B.O. Buttress proper.
RPs, small offset nuts handy, a few of the smallest sizes of TCUs, #.4-#2 BD cams for anchor. Walk off to the south.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Aug 18, 2011
What a hilarious name, especially if I picture either of you guys with said book in your hands, deep in thought...