Don't Pull on the Udder 

This route was put up ground up by Pat and Azenda Thompson. I put the bolts in later to make a safe mixed beginner route. The name of the route is Don't Pull on the Udder. This is in relation to the big chockstone at the top of the route. I think it is solid but beware. We actually called this crag Bovine World. I used 0 TCUs and a .5 Camalot on the route. We thought the route was about 5.7.

The short hand crack 10 feet to the right also has anchors on it. It definitely does not get stars, but it was put up ground up by Gene Kissler [I am not sure of spelling] and Pat Thompson. It goes at about 5.8 through the crack and backs off to maybe 5.4 above to the anchors. We used a number 1 or 2 Camalot for the crack and TCUs and stoppers above.

Also up the hill and 20 feet to the right is another short crack with chain anchors. It starts in a right-facing dihedral and pulls the obvious roof and then ascends the short face on horizontals. You will need medium cams and TCUs for this route. I really enjoy this route, so I give it 1 star because it is so short. This route was put up ground up also, by Pat and Azenda Thompson and also Chris and Shannon Coney. We called this route Cow Patty Crack. It goes at about 5.9.

I forgot to put route name for short 5.8 crack right of Udder climb . We called it Salisbury Steak Crack because Gene had to eat salisbury steak in Estes Park because he could not find any vegetarian food there. I guess you had to be there.

Thanks Pat and Azenda! This is so short and yet so sweet. It is a one hit wonder of a move but fun all the same. I definitely placed a cam in the crack just before the 3rd bolt...just to give me confidence to make the step up. This one is a 5.8 in my book. If you have never led a 5.9...this would be a good first attempt as you will succeed!

Not as bad as it looks from the ground -- it's actually a decent (though very short) pitch. From the top, it's possible to traverse climber's left to the next set of anchors, and set up a toprope anchor for the two neighboring climbs.

Without any prior info, we assumed this route was rated 5.7. I did like the crack where a bomber placement of a #9 stopper can be made.

In 2008, the chockstone is still there--and I still wouldn't crank on it! This is a short and sweet 5.8 that's easy to protect with an extra stopper and cam.