Sustained climb and rated well.
1st climb on the left
Quickdraws and something to setup a top rope if you want.
BETA PHOTO: DPT = straight up the bottom of the obvious vertic... BETA PHOTO: Route Beta for DPT.
From: San Diego, Ca
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cruxes are the start and finish. Awkward/balancy start with marginal holds. Middle section is pretty straight forward. Last move on the block at the top is difficult: mantle on thin feet to a high, reachy--yet bomber, if you get it--hold up left. Bolts are well-placed.
|By George Bracksieck|
Jan 9, 2014
Because of decking potential getting to the second bolt, I stick-clipped it. The low crux is continuous, with sometimes-hard-to-see feet, from the ground to above the second bolt. The seventh (last) bolt is well-placed for clipping, but there is definite ledge-out potential when making the long reach to a sloper, off of bad feet. (The good hold is even higher.) I was wishing that the last bolt had been placed higher, where there are still good holds to clip from, before committing to the crux moves.
The two modern bolts at the top have rings, which are set back from the edge of the summit and should be extended for lowering (at least 90 feet to the ground). Based on the OP's claim that this route is 60 feet long, and to carry less weight up the hour-plus approach, we brought a short rope — so I belayed Sally up, and we walked off.
Jan 18, 2014
George, smart move on the stick clip! Felt super sketchy getting that second clip. Really well rated, bottom and top cruxes. Approach was crazy for first-timers! Great all around climb, really exposed.