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Godzilla Buttress
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Don't Pet The Tiger 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 814
Submitted By: KraigP on Nov 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Criuzing the middle section of Don't Pet the Tiger

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sustained climb and rated well.

Location 

1st climb on the left

Protection 

Quickdraws and something to setup a top rope if you want.


Photos of Don't Pet The Tiger Slideshow Add Photo
DPT = straight up the bottom of the obvious vertic...
BETA PHOTO: DPT = straight up the bottom of the obvious vertic...
Another shot of DPT
Another shot of DPT
Route Beta for DPT.
BETA PHOTO: Route Beta for DPT.

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By Joan Bertini
Feb 19, 2010

FA by Joan Bertini/Dave Kennedy.
By jeffblankman
From: San Diego, Ca
May 14, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Cruxes are the start and finish. Awkward/balancy start with marginal holds. Middle section is pretty straight forward. Last move on the block at the top is difficult: mantle on thin feet to a high, reachy--yet bomber, if you get it--hold up left. Bolts are well-placed.
By George Bracksieck
Jan 9, 2014

Because of decking potential getting to the second bolt, I stick-clipped it. The low crux is continuous, with sometimes-hard-to-see feet, from the ground to above the second bolt. The seventh (last) bolt is well-placed for clipping, but there is definite ledge-out potential when making the long reach to a sloper, off of bad feet. (The good hold is even higher.) I was wishing that the last bolt had been placed higher, where there are still good holds to clip from, before committing to the crux moves.

The two modern bolts at the top have rings, which are set back from the edge of the summit and should be extended for lowering (at least 90 feet to the ground). Based on the OP's claim that this route is 60 feet long, and to carry less weight up the hour-plus approach, we brought a short rope so I belayed Sally up, and we walked off.
By csass
Jan 18, 2014

George, smart move on the stick clip! Felt super sketchy getting that second clip. Really well rated, bottom and top cruxes. Approach was crazy for first-timers! Great all around climb, really exposed.