Dont Panic It's Organic
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In some ways this route is contrived and seems more of a variation for Parallel Journey
. Still, since the guidebook lists it as two different routes, so will I.
Begin with either P1 of Parallel Journey
or P1 of Perversion
(recommended). If choosing Perversion
, you will have to move the belay left to the base of the twin cracks. The right crack is P2 of Parallel Journey
while the left one is Dont Panic its Organic.
Head up the stem box using the left crack for gear and finger locks. Eventually the crack becomes very thin and you can either jump right to the other crack (Parallel Journey
) or continue up on small gear. The Rossiters topo indicates that this is the crux, but I felt higher up was equally as challenging. Continue up the left crack going over a small bulge for a second crux. The climbing eases up after this point (5.5-5.8) as you head up one more bulge and stem box. Near the top there is a low angle, finger crack that juts left to a few jugs below a roof. Just beyond the roof are the rap anchors. If you make good use of slings this can be done as one pitch w/ a 60m rope. If not, set up a belay just past the second bulge.
To find this route, head uphill along the base of the crag until you go past a large boulder that is leaning against the cliff. On the left side of the boulder is a left-facing dihedral that forms P1 of Parallel Journey
. Begin here or scramble up the boulder, heading right, then climb P1 of Perversion
Rap the route with one 60m rope
Rack: Small to large nuts, a few micro cams then up to #3 Camalot. Due to the length of the climb, doubling up on cams is not a bad idea.