Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mickey Mouse Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asahi 
Beagle's Ear 
Boxcar Willie 
Captain Beyond 
Culp's Fault 
Donít Panic It's Organic 
Eagle's Bier 
Fake Right, Go Left 
Flakes 
Green Dihedral 
Hamburger Helper 
Krystal Klyr 
Lifestream 
Mausoleum 
Mighty Mouse 
Oblique Streak 
Offset, The 
Parallel Journey 
Perilous Journey 
Perversion 
Red Dihedral 
Shiva's Dance 
Sidewinder 
Simian's Way 
Skink's Lip 
Stigmata 
Three Mousketeers, The 
Unnamed Dihedral 
Vergin' on Perversion 
Vulcans Don't Lie 
Zambezi 
Zambezi (??) 
Zen Effects 
Unsorted Routes:

Donít Panic It's Organic 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 195'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard and Joyce Rosstier
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: Sergio P on Sep 3, 2007
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

  • Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year. MORE INFO >>>
  • Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    In some ways this route is contrived and seems more of a variation for Parallel Journey. Still, since the guidebook lists it as two different routes, so will I.

    Begin with either P1 of Parallel Journey or P1 of Perversion (recommended). If choosing Perversion, you will have to move the belay left to the base of the twin cracks. The right crack is P2 of Parallel Journey while the left one is Donít Panic its Organic.

    Head up the stem box using the left crack for gear and finger locks. Eventually the crack becomes very thin and you can either jump right to the other crack (Parallel Journey) or continue up on small gear. The Rossiterís topo indicates that this is the crux, but I felt higher up was equally as challenging. Continue up the left crack going over a small bulge for a second crux. The climbing eases up after this point (5.5-5.8) as you head up one more bulge and stem box. Near the top there is a low angle, finger crack that juts left to a few jugs below a roof. Just beyond the roof are the rap anchors. If you make good use of slings this can be done as one pitch w/ a 60m rope. If not, set up a belay just past the second bulge.


    Location 

    To find this route, head uphill along the base of the crag until you go past a large boulder that is leaning against the cliff. On the left side of the boulder is a left-facing dihedral that forms P1 of Parallel Journey. Begin here or scramble up the boulder, heading right, then climb P1 of Perversion.

    Rap the route with one 60m rope


    Protection 

    Rack: Small to large nuts, a few micro cams then up to #3 Camalot. Due to the length of the climb, doubling up on cams is not a bad idea.



    Comments on Donít Panic It's Organic Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -