Don’t Panic It's Organic  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 195 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  Richard and Joyce Rosstier Submitted By:  Sergio P on Sep 3, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31 each year. MORE INFO >>> Mickey Mouse wall is generally closed for raptor nesting from February 1 through July 31. Details This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

In some ways this route is contrived and seems more of a variation for Parallel Journey. Still, since the guidebook lists it as two different routes, so will I.

Begin with either P1 of Parallel Journey or P1 of Perversion (recommended). If choosing Perversion, you will have to move the belay left to the base of the twin cracks. The right crack is P2 of Parallel Journey while the left one is Don’t Panic its Organic.

Head up the stem box using the left crack for gear and finger locks. Eventually the crack becomes very thin and you can either jump right to the other crack (Parallel Journey) or continue up on small gear. The Rossiter’s topo indicates that this is the crux, but I felt higher up was equally as challenging. Continue up the left crack going over a small bulge for a second crux. The climbing eases up after this point (5.5-5.8) as you head up one more bulge and stem box. Near the top there is a low angle, finger crack that juts left to a few jugs below a roof. Just beyond the roof are the rap anchors. If you make good use of slings this can be done as one pitch w/ a 60m rope. If not, set up a belay just past the second bulge.

Location 

To find this route, head uphill along the base of the crag until you go past a large boulder that is leaning against the cliff. On the left side of the boulder is a left-facing dihedral that forms P1 of Parallel Journey. Begin here or scramble up the boulder, heading right, then climb P1 of Perversion.

Rap the route with one 60m rope

Protection 

Rack: Small to large nuts, a few micro cams then up to #3 Camalot. Due to the length of the climb, doubling up on cams is not a bad idea.