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 ADVANCED
Narcolepsy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anuresis 
Chimney Sweep 
Don't Jump Back Crack 
Dream Slate 
Dreamscape 
Ethiopian Kid 
Involuntary Release 
Mr. Sandman 
Narcolepsy 
Narcosis 
Suture Fancy 
Turn Of The Sentry 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder 

Don't Jump Back Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Booth, Lenny Nelson 1964
Page Views: 891
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 20, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: 12) Anuresis 13) Don't Jump Back Crack

Description 

This climbs the right crack in the chimney on the cliffs just below Narcolepsy. Don't chimney, also don't fall too far backwards. A good climb with a few nice jams.


Protection 

Long slings and gear for the anchors up top.



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By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 16, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The first part of this lead is scary because you don't want to fall into the chimney. Once out of the chimney, you feel super exposed. Difficult stances for the grade; however, the crack takes nuts nicely (I placed five nuts and only one cam). Don't bother with any large pieces, all pro is small.

By oldfart
Sep 12, 2010

Watch out for rattle snakes in the corridor!

By WesR
From: slc, ut
Jun 26, 2012

You can walk off the top of this, it walks off into the main narcolepsy area

By tri-cameron
Sep 18, 2013

new chain anchors have been added to this route in the last month or so.

Not necessary but convenient no less.