This climbs the right crack in the chimney on the cliffs just below Narcolepsy. Don't chimney, also don't fall too far backwards. A good climb with a few nice jams.
Long slings and gear for the anchors up top.
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Aug 16, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The first part of this lead is scary because you don't want to fall into the chimney. Once out of the chimney, you feel super exposed. Difficult stances for the grade; however, the crack takes nuts nicely (I placed five nuts and only one cam). Don't bother with any large pieces, all pro is small.
Sep 12, 2010
Watch out for rattle snakes in the corridor!
From: slc, ut
Jun 26, 2012
You can walk off the top of this, it walks off into the main narcolepsy area
Sep 18, 2013
new chain anchors have been added to this route in the last month or so.
Not necessary but convenient no less.