Don't Judge a Book by its Cover
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A north facing corner that leads to a roof that is by-passed to the right. Protection on the route is difficult and not secure.
Northern side of the buttress
Small cams and small brass nuts most of which are in suspect locations. A wise climber would use double ropes so to take advantage all the pro possible with out adding rope drag. The pin (knife blade) can not be trusted as it is in hollow rock.
|Comments on Don't Judge a Book by its Cover
By John Steiger
Aug 13, 2016
This route is best appreciated through the lens of local history. For the first ascent, Bret led this on-sight, ground-up, and with a rudimentary rack (no microcams in 86). In those days Bret and other locals were probing their mental as well as physical limits, launching up untouched faces with little apparent protection and producing creations such as this, Pipeline Sequence, and Life Sentence, all led by Bret. After cajoling the story out of him, Bret humbly explained, "it was the trend of the sport back then. Merrill was doing ‘Eye In the Sky’ and ‘Ms. Luval Cranks a Thesis’ with his rack of RPs and endless endurance, so we all tried to copy him, but at the much lower 5.9/5.10 level." Yep, Bret and Stuart were slackers alright. In any event, long live BCC's trad climbing tradition.