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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Don't Grab Here 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Robert Fleugher, Adam Grad, Tom Weaver,Bill Clinch,'89
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Climbs seam that leads to right side of roof then ...

Description 

Crux is up high and bolt protected. Getting there using bolts and good gear is fun.


Location 

To the right of the obvious roof on the Tower. Starts up steep broken juggy face then follows crack/seam to right side of roof.


Protection 

Bolts, light rack to yellow camalot.



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By Desicon
Jan 28, 2008

This climb, "Flight Delay," if it is on the spire above Kessler Corner, in the Cherry Creek basin east of the highway, was initially done back sometime between 1989 and 1992 by Robert Flaugher, Adam Grad, Bill Clinch and Tom Weaver. As I recall it, the nasty, crumbly junk at the bottom can be avoided on the right for mounting moves. Or, taking great care, you can pick you way through the slabby stuff for a more direct start. This direct start was done "for fun" on top rope after the original FA. I think the rating given the main route was "some sort of ten." I believe it was then called "Don't Grab Here!" for all the loose holds at the bottom. Flaugher may have used the "semi-rotten" chimney as the easiest access to the top, but my notes here are incomplete, I may have some photos, I'll look. The rest of his climbs on this tower were simple top roping adventures, including a potential 5.10 +/ 5.11 going up the center face cracks.

Most of the face climbs on the main, back wall -- merely called the South Wall Kessler back then (I like the new name better!) were only top-roped so all subsequent FAs stand, as far as I'm concerned. So any one who did these as "legitimate FA leads" deserves all the credit of developmental honours!

LOL, just found the area description for this tower, yep, that's the one we climbed a LONG time ago. Good to see that people are still exploring out east here, and fully developing this place! You've done it up proud, Eric! Not bad fer a guy with a "gimpy shoulder," or have you fully recovered from that "pulling" accident?

For those who have good solid legs, go north, up the same creek bed, lots further north, the "High Wide" white wall, visible from Winy point on the NE rim of Bear Canyon, just before the road makes its hairpin curve (MP 12), has plenty of VERY high quality rock in the 150 foot range. About a 55 minute grind up from the restroom/ picnic lot. Only three routes have been fully developed out there, that I know of, as of 1995. This area was also "abandoned" about that time. Maybe Greg or was it Jeff Mayhew (I think that's the name) has done some work out there as well, around 2005?

Also, for really good hikers, go east-southeast from OMSF, about 1.5 miles, two stream vallies further east, another grand wall, 75 feet high, 150 feet broad, very erect, fully open for development.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 1, 2008

Thanks Desicon for solving the mystery and getting credit to the original finders of the place.