Don't Bug Me 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Blair, Paul Diefenderfer, Andy Linkner |
| Submitted By: | Marcy on May 27, 2007 |
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Looking down from the belay 'notch' at the pitch 2...
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Description The first route put up in Jacuzzi Spires. Starts just left of a large dihedral.
Pitch 1: Climb the obvious crack to a large ledge. There is 1 bolt and gear opportunities to set up a belay here, or traverse right to the base of a large dihedral and belay here (gear anchor).
Pitch 2: Head up the right facing dihedral and belay at the notch on top. Small to medium (#4 Camalot) gear is nice on this pitch. Gear anchor - small cams / tricams.
Pitch 3 Traverse ~10' right from the belay and head up a nice crack to the summit. Small to medium gear. Can belay from gear anchor (medium gear) or move over right and belay from rap anchor.
Descent: 1 double rope rappel off the back side of the spire.
Location Begins on the left face of the first spire.
Protection Small to medium gear. Doubles of #1-3 Camalot are nice.
By Micah C
Nov 28, 2009
| One 60 meter rope rap off the back works just fine with rope to spare. Be sure to take a gander at the bolted 5.12 Face climb on your way down too, you know, in case you want to climb it next! |
By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.7
| Jeep road gets pretty rutted past the creek, you need 4WD.. We took mountain bikes and rode with packs to the pull out couple miles in. Great protection on quality rock. I thought smearing on traverse on third pitch was the crux. I used 0 Metolius master cam to BD C4 #4 (2nd pitch), also bring pink and red tri cams if you have them. Good climbing with incredible views. Don't start up approach to soon. Look for cairns next to wash below spire |
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