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Unsorted Routes:

Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (FA) Rick Kollath, Dave Pagel, (FFA) James Loveridge
Page Views: 3,145
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Sep 4, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Darin Limvere onsighting "Gun Fight" in the rain. ...

Description 

Formerly known as "Knife Guys Finish First" (A3). Start on pedestal in corner (Same start as for "Withering Heights" a super dirty and loose 5.11). Sustained thin crack climbing with good pro throughout. Start is protected with two pieces of fixed gear. After that it's small to medium TCU's and/or Aliens. Very good rest in the middle when you need it. Follow crack/shallow-dihedral to dirty alcove 25' from top. At alcove, move left 3' to clean widening crack and follow it to the belay perch.


Location 

On the north face of North Tower (prominent buttress N of "Mack The Knife"). The climb ascends the distinct, left trending S-shaped crack system on the northern side of the Tower. Set up anchors on top of the tower to hang over the edge at the nice belay perch 5' below top of tower. Rap to the base of tower (route starts on top of pedestal). NOTE: A 60M rope just makes it to the bottom with rope stretch. If you want to TR, do it from a top belay set up and make sure you place a couple directional's as you rap/lower to the start (a couple small cams to 1" and a draw for upper fixed piece should do it).


Protection 

Bring full trad rack, Cams up to #2 Camalot. Heavy on small to medium cams.

Thanks to James Loveridge for providing the detailed route info.



Photos of Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" Slideshow Add Photo
Strenuous pro placement.
Strenuous pro placement.
J.Lo - Botom, post crux
J.Lo - Botom, post crux
Me leading Gun Fight
Me leading Gun Fight
Me leading Gun Fight
Me leading Gun Fight
Me leading Gun Fight
Me leading Gun Fight
J.Lo on FA July 2004
J.Lo on FA July 2004
Climbing through the fog. Everything felt slightly wet and muggy.
Climbing through the fog. Everything felt slightly...
Joel Therneau on Gun Fight. September '07.
Joel Therneau on Gun Fight. September '07.
Gun Fight. Joel Therneau and Darin Limvere. September '07.
Gun Fight. Joel Therneau and Darin Limvere. Septem...
Me leading Gun Fight
Me leading Gun Fight
Nearing the end of Gunfight where you can get a good #3 on the left.
Nearing the end of Gunfight where you can get a go...
Me leading Gun Fight
Me leading Gun Fight
Comments on Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rick Kollath
Jan 9, 2008

This is a really fine route but to put it in the same class as "Poseidon Adventure"is to render the star rating system moot (sorry James). The latter merits four stars, the former at least one less. I'd say generally folks could be a little less enthusiastic.

By James Loveridge
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 9, 2008

That's the Rick we all know and love. Mr. sour grapes (grin). I hear ya on Poseidon being a higher quality route. No debate there but I think the "enthusiasm" for Gunfight comes from the fact that it is a well protected route at a moderately "hard" grade. It's the only 5.11- at P-head that most climbers who's maximum current ability is 5.11 can onsite. Poseidon is well harder and the pro is not that great, therefore it doesn't get led very much. When it does it is almost always done by climbers who are MUCH stronger then the route requires. I changed my star rating to reflect your comments but I am confident that Gunfight will get climbed (led) WAY more than Poseidon in the years to come. I will admit however that Popularity does not always coincide with quality. Just look at most movies, music and politics…

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 23, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

just a fun, lovely route. bomber fingers, techy feet, sequential crux.

By Travis Hibbard
Jun 23, 2008

What a great route!
One of if not my favorite routes at Palisade...
Awesome movement at the bottom that is only slightly marred by the climbing at the end.
It was a pleasure belaying Randy on this route and seconding it.

I would HIGHLY recommend this route.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Jul 22, 2008

Awesome job cleaning up this climb James. You should get an extra hundred points, or at least a root beer.

By BIATHLON
From: Duluth Mn
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I thought this was 4 stars for sure. Good pro, fun sequencial climbing on great rock. A few long runners are useful on the bottom to prevent rope drag.